Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, so ive already cracked the shit out of my front bumper :P took a bit of getting used to what i can and cant get over sorta thing.

im wondering if you guys would consider this an easy repair/touch up, or get it proffesionly done.

090308165823f.jpg090308165803w.jpg

and secondly, what would you do with this? it looks really shit and its annoying me so much lol. im talking about the break light at top of the windscreen. can it be removed? or is that illegal? or cause problems with anything?

090308165731x.jpg

thanks in advance

Edited by subz040
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260167-2-small-questions/
Share on other sites

think the break light can be removed, i dont have one there, I have my Normal rear lights plus one in the spoiler, I think aslong as you have working brake lights you should be ok.

As for Front Bumper, I would Find out if a Proffesional can do it, as i am no fibreglasser :P

FibreVision: 9458 8998

in the mean time.....Race tape comes in Black :sweat:

  subz040 said:
ok, so ive already cracked the shit out of my front bumper :P took a bit of getting used to what i can and cant get over sorta thing.

im wondering if you guys would consider this an easy repair/touch up, or get it proffesionly done.

Live with it for as long as you can because you will do it again.

As far as repairing and touching it up is concerned, that's up to your own abilities. Some can...... Some can't. The finished product is what you need to be happy with. Try it. If you're not happy, get it done professionally but make sure you're finished trashing it first.

  Quote
and secondly, what would you do with this? it looks really shit and its annoying me so much lol. im talking about the break light at top of the windscreen. can it be removed? or is that illegal? or cause problems with anything?

The eye level brake light is an ADR requirement for post 89 vehicles. The only thing I can suggest is to remove it, clean both surfaces and then reapply some more high quality (3M) black double sided tape.

wow thanks for the fast replies.

2lv8etr -

yeh that sounds like a good idea, i wouldnt mind it being there if it looked fresh with new black tape. it just looks so tacky the way it looks right now.

generally im pretty handy, im a cabinet maker so im good with my hands. just wasnt sure how far gone the bumper is.

but as you guys said, i may aswel give it a go, and if its dodgy then get it done proffessionaly.

roughly how much paint would i need to redo the whole bumper? because aside from the rips, theres alot of chips and scratches in it also.

  subz040 said:
roughly how much paint would i need to redo the whole bumper? because aside from the rips, theres alot of chips and scratches in it also.

I would estimate 2 litres. Give it a few coats so the thicker paint will help hide the smaller stone chips.

  2LV8ETR said:
I would estimate 2 litres. Give it a few coats so the thicker paint will help hide the smaller stone chips.

2 litres?

I did my front bumper my self and use only 300mls, and thats with three coats of paint.

Of crse you mix in thinners etc into the mix.

However if you get someone to eye match it, there is a mim buy of i think 500mls.

I bought a litre as i want to do my side skirts and pods.

Dont forget the clear coat as well.

  br3ndan said:
2 litres?

I did my front bumper my self and use only 300mls, and thats with three coats of paint.

Yup. I made a call to a mate whose brother is in the game. He specialises in fibreglass for speedway and drag cars. He reckons no more than a litre will do it.

Like I said..... I estimate. I should have made the call first.

Sorry man.

Do 2 coats of clear then see how it goes. Of of needs more do another one.

As for the eye-level brake light, that looks really out of place. If I was you I'd remove it completely and put it back if you get stickered. A friend of mine has pasted the pits 3+ times without an eye level brake light on her 33.

  NA_Goodness said:
Do 2 coats of clear then see how it goes. Of of needs more do another one.

As for the eye-level brake light, that looks really out of place. If I was you I'd remove it completely and put it back if you get stickered. A friend of mine has pasted the pits 3+ times without an eye level brake light on her 33.

umm what?

  subz040 said:
just wasnt sure how far gone the bumper is.

mine is a lot worse! :)

I'm going to get mine re-fibreglassed/painted along with gtr pods soon.

  NA_Goodness said:
Do 2 coats of clear then see how it goes. Of of needs more do another one.

As for the eye-level brake light, that looks really out of place. If I was you I'd remove it completely and put it back if you get stickered. A friend of mine has pasted the pits 3+ times without an eye level brake light on her 33.

umm what?

I have a high level break light because I don't have a wing but mine doesn't look like that, looks abit messy? ^^ agree with Rob, maybz get someone to help neaten it up abit (and it's strange that the casing around the light is white? mien is black so you can barely see it)

There is the rear windscreen wiper at the bottom center of the r33 windscreen :rolleyes:

Just take it out. If you get a sticker, put it back in when you go over the pits. Cops aren't going to sticker you for no high level rear brake light if you aren't doing anything wrong (I wouldn't think)

  MeLSki said:
?

surely you'd def get stickered for no high level break light? If you can get stickered for an oil leak

I've passed the pits without one and when I got stickered it wasn't mentioned at all. If it ever becomes an issue I'll pull the lights out of my old stock spoiler and put them somewhere.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...