Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1990 Nissan R32 gtr

110,000k's

gunmetal grey

factory alloys with good rubber

Car is registered till oct this year

ENGINE

Late last year the engine felt like it was slightly down on power. It was taken to a well known jap tuner and put on the dyno and made 208kw at the wheels. The guy then found the fuel injector on 5th cylinder was leaking which has caused that piston to lean out and has caused detonation. compression test was done and the results were 170, 170, 170, 170, 50, 170psi.

The car has not been driven since. i have been quoted $5500 for standard rebuild.

This car would ideally suit someone who could do most of the work themselves. Ive been told the parts needed for a rebuild are only 2-3g. its all the labour that costs the money.

BODY

standard bodykit

body is strait and paint work is good. its 19 years old now but is still very respectable for its age.

the front bumper is ok but i was going to get aroung to getting it repainted ($300)

basicly the car comes up good with a clean and a polish.

INTERIOR

very tidy for age

drivers seat showing usual signs of wear

dash bulbs have been replaced with brighter LEDs (looks much better)

DRIVETRAIN

gearbox is good no crunching and diff seems tight

MODS

$700 alarm installed (tilt sensors, immobilisers etc)

Blitz twin pods

Huge exhaust (not too loud though)

Tein suspension

Nismo suspensionm arms

New twin plate clutch

Nismo 320k speedo

Nismo intercooler surround

tinted windows

Steering wheel

Greedy blow off valve

Arc inlet pipe

MAINTINANCE

engine oil replaced every 5000k (redline)

gearbox and diff oil replaced every 10,000k (redline)

clutch replaced bout 1000k ago

all belts, radiator, water pump replaced @ 80,000k

all brake rotors machined when clutch was done 1000k ago

I have owned this car for over two years and up until now has been a great car.

My asking price is $11,000ono or swap for why.

My reason for selling is i have alot of debt and cant justify spendenig money on a motor rebuild when other things should take priority.....sadly:(

Will get pics up asap or can just pxt via phone

Call or text Carl anytime on 0420783616 post-39739-1236550902_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260224-r32-gtr-for-sale-11000-ono/
Share on other sites

This car also has a brand new speedo cable fitted and comes with original bumper mesh that covers the intercooler also the original airbox. I have a gtr workshop manual on cd and heaps of reciepts for things done to the car.

First person to come up with $10K takes it away!

For an idea of what i would swap.........dont offer me any ford or holden! enough said. haha;)

Hey guys the passenger side window has decided not to work? it seems to have no power at all? ive never had any problems with the windows before. maybe its because its been sitting around for 2 months? but anyways just letting you know.

Hi karl

I spoke to you today about your car,I am the bloke from tassy and was going to catch up thursday.I see you may have sold and i hope you have but if it falls through please call me as i will still come and look and most likly buy.

regards stuart 0409135950

STILL FOR SALE!!!.........deal didnt come through. $9500 FIRM. I will not give this car away for nothing. If your not preppared to pay the asking price, dont bother looking :D Window is working fine now, the window lock was on :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...