Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i got my belt done today by dan at elite racing developments, here is what i got quoted and it is also what i ended up paying. he also picked up my car from my work and delivered it back for me to drive home. in my opionion that makes him a very nice mechanic, i recomend him highly.

The timing kit costs $280 (this includes Gates racing timing belt, cam and crank seals and both bearings [idler and tensioner]

New idler bolt is $5 (these are prone to breaking so best to replace it)

Water pump is $130 (timing belt has to come off to do the water pump anyway and I haven't seen an RB water pump last two rounds)

Coolant is $20

Labour is $231

once agian i recommend dan very highly

ok i got my belt done today by dan at elite racing developments, here is what i got quoted and it is also what i ended up paying. he also picked up my car from my work and delivered it back for me to drive home. in my opionion that makes him a very nice mechanic, i recomend him highly.

The timing kit costs $280 (this includes Gates racing timing belt, cam and crank seals and both bearings [idler and tensioner]

New idler bolt is $5 (these are prone to breaking so best to replace it)

Water pump is $130 (timing belt has to come off to do the water pump anyway and I haven't seen an RB water pump last two rounds)

Coolant is $20

Labour is $231

once agian i recommend dan very highly

Thats awesome to know.. :(

My Girl hasn't done 85 000 yet, But I'll prob get the timing belt done at around 90 000, Just incase her K's have been tinkered with coming from Japan (Better to be safe than sorry IMO)

I'll def look into this when the time gets closer!! :(

Edited by 83CKS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...