Jump to content
SAU Community

Cracked Gearbox Housing

Mister25t
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mister25t Explorer

Mister25t

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there,

I have owned my Series II R33 GTST for over a year and it has always had clutch troubles; at first suffering from feeling notchy and grinding the odd shift with the engagement point constantly moving but slowly getting worse with the clutch sometimes slipping when dumped hard and other times peeling the tyres over with little effort required and now when the engine is running it can't select a gear and tries to roll forwards like the clutch is not even disengaging at all. I havn't driven it in months as i havn't had the time to work on it, but this week i got some clutch cylinder rebuild kits to see if that would help (i have have tried bleeding it so many times) but today when i dropped the slave off i see that around the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing is all cracked. The cracks are pretty extensive and go right to the front face of the bellhousing and underneath as well but it seems that they have been caused by the operation of the clutch slave cylinder?

post-46790-1237088187_thumb.jpgpost-46790-1237088274_thumb.jpg

Obviously im going to have to drop the gearbox to weld it up or replace the front housing but does anyone have any insight into the cause of this problem? The car supposedly has a brass puck clutch and the clutch pedal is quite heavy so could a heavy and perhaps failing clutch cause this sort of issue?

Cheers for any input, just seems strange i've never heard of anything like it and couldn't find any reference on the forums either.

Edited by Mister25t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261167-cracked-gearbox-housing/
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

Looks more like casting artifacts to me. I'm particularly suspicious of the crack theory when it would appear that the largest crack doesn't extend completely to the clutch fork hole (but that might be just the nature of the photo). If the bellhousing is so severely cracked to the extent that it affects clutch operation, you should be able to see the cracks open/close with operation of the clutch pedal.

Before having anything welded, you should have the cracking confirmed by an NDT specialist using dye penetrant or possibly even eddy current testing. Aviation industry specialists qualified to ANDT and CASA requirements are the best to use for this.

Nathan76 Apprentice

Nathan76

Posted
Posted

from those photos they just look like casting marks not cracks at all.

the only time i have seen a bell housing crack is when people rattle the bellhousing bolts up unevenly or with something caught inbetween block and bell housing

Mister25t Explorer

Mister25t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Aw yeah thats great news guys. Just me being bloody minded it looks like. I'm predicting that im going to have to drop the gearbox anyway so i didn't really take a good look over the whole housing to see all the marks everywhere. Thanks for the quick help and not burning me for being a dumbass. Just waiting on braided clutch line to arrive before i put the lot back together and see how it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...