Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

After researching it seems like water pump failure isnt that uncommon. The car has never been overheated before but I've filled the reservoir up 3 or 4 times with coolent since my last service (8000km).

I can see coolent residue on the car when its up on hoist too but never a patch of green stuff when I park.

What I wanna know is how is the system diagram like... what goes where. I might try googling and see if anything comes up.

ps: I'm hoping its the water pump because I'm changing that out this weekend for major service!

Wow you do long service intervals. Mines lucky to see 5,000k's without the oil and filter been changed.

Yeah I've heard the water pumps do fail a fair bit. Make sure they put an n1 item back on since your car is an n1 and not a standard pump. They aren't much more and if the car gets rev'd a bit will help stop cavatation.

The bottom of your radiator hose should go into the water pump which is on the front of your engine.

Up the top should come out of the head and into the thermostat and then over to the top of the radiator.

From the radiator cap there should be a line running to the resevoir.

Also there is a Thermo switch at the bottom and a drain plug to check.

post-70860-1278471059_thumb.jpg

There is a air drain plug in the side of the head, just in front of the injectors

post-70860-1278470846_thumb.jpg

And then there are the heater lines that should come from the engine block/head and run into the car. One of mine looks like it comes from the thermo housing and around the front of the engine. Not sure but maybe someone can clarify this.

@John, Phil

I is going to take a 'strayen day tomorrow, but I don't feel like driving to aspley just for the privelidge of driving back to petrie :D. If you can give me a ring when you leave aspley I'll meet you on the way

Phil, if you have my alfa bits back can you bring em along? If not, don't worry.

@John, Phil

I is going to take a 'strayen day tomorrow, but I don't feel like driving to aspley just for the privelidge of driving back to petrie :P . If you can give me a ring when you leave aspley I'll meet you on the way

Phil, if you have my alfa bits back can you bring em along? If not, don't worry.

I am also taking a strayen day tomorrow but have to pick up my daughter so will only be making the trip some of the way. Tim have your alfa bits will drop them off tomoz.

You owe me :P:D

After researching it seems like water pump failure isnt that uncommon. The car has never been overheated before but I've filled the reservoir up 3 or 4 times with coolent since my last service (8000km).

I can see coolent residue on the car when its up on hoist too but never a patch of green stuff when I park.

What I wanna know is how is the system diagram like... what goes where. I might try googling and see if anything comes up.

ps: I'm hoping its the water pump because I'm changing that out this weekend for major service!

i wouldnt mind betting you are losing that water from where the top plastic tank joins the main core of your radiator, super common

Wow you do long service intervals. Mines lucky to see 5,000k's without the oil and filter been changed.

Yeah I've heard the water pumps do fail a fair bit. Make sure they put an n1 item back on since your car is an n1 and not a standard pump. They aren't much more and if the car gets rev'd a bit will help stop cavatation.

The bottom of your radiator hose should go into the water pump which is on the front of your engine.

Up the top should come out of the head and into the thermostat and then over to the top of the radiator.

From the radiator cap there should be a line running to the resevoir.

Also there is a Thermo switch at the bottom and a drain plug to check.

post-70860-1278471059_thumb.jpg

There is a air drain plug in the side of the head, just in front of the injectors

post-70860-1278470846_thumb.jpg

And then there are the heater lines that should come from the engine block/head and run into the car. One of mine looks like it comes from the thermo housing and around the front of the engine. Not sure but maybe someone can clarify this.

Thanks for that mate. I hope that'll be fixed this weekend. I have already order the N1 water pump. Gonna keep the car as close to stock as possible.

The service duration of 5000km to me is over the top (I cant never understand why because factory doesnt even do them that often). I dont flog the shit outta my car and at the same time, my mechanic told me royal purple is good for more than 10000km if I wish but he'll set the next oil change at 8000km. I've been doing that for the last 2 oil changes and the car drives like new.

Well Ive just come off the track, in a good way (via pit lane)...

PS> This circuit makes my bunghole shrink rapidly coming into the corners...

We are now got a hour to relax and eat before the debriefing and timing sheets come out...

Im starving just wanted to log on to update fb... :D

That is f**kin awesome. Prodrive are pretty involved in the WRC aswell aren't they?

Ummmm not sure... I know they big into circuit racing, ill ask...

Thanks for that mate. I hope that'll be fixed this weekend. I have already order the N1 water pump. Gonna keep the car as close to stock as possible.

The service duration of 5000km to me is over the top (I cant never understand why because factory doesnt even do them that often). I dont flog the shit outta my car and at the same time, my mechanic told me royal purple is good for more than 10000km if I wish but he'll set the next oil change at 8000km. I've been doing that for the last 2 oil changes and the car drives like new.

Yeah as Bunta said, check your core.

Sounds good mate. Yeah I do it as a safety because as an engine gets older the rings allow more blow by and with the increased boost its not really helping the matter. lol Suprisingly my gtr has very little but good insurance. With the fuel dilution of the oil it does affect it fairly badly and can also lead to pitting of the camshafts, etc. So thats the only reason I do it. Each to there own.

How much do you get the royal purple for and where do you get it from if you don't mind me asking? And what grade do you use?

Heard some good stuff about this.

Cheers

Edited by 32vspec2gtr
Well Ive just come off the track, in a good way (via pit lane)...

PS> This circuit makes my bunghole shrink rapidly coming into the corners...

We are now got a hour to relax and eat before the debriefing and timing sheets come out...

Im starving just wanted to log on to update fb... :D

Ummmm not sure... I know they big into circuit racing, ill ask...

So how does a general smo ( i.e me ) get to have a crack at what your doing ?

Say what?

I have just worked two 12 hour days and was supposed to have my daughter yesterday. So because of that I have to pick her up tomorrow. She lives in ipswich so I'll accompany you on part of the trip and leave you when i get to ipswich. If thats to much of a issue then I won't be able to attend at all.

The service duration of 5000km to me is over the top (I cant never understand why because factory doesnt even do them that often). I dont flog the shit outta my car and at the same time, my mechanic told me royal purple is good for more than 10000km if I wish but he'll set the next oil change at 8000km. I've been doing that for the last 2 oil changes and the car drives like new.

That's because "factory" normally doesn't service 15-20 year old cars (with a handful of exceptions like the ones Dan works on). Especially when they weren't even sold from "factory" in the country.

You will find that a lot of places change oil or spark plugs (or at least clean the plugs) every 5000kms though. And yes, your oil may be good for 8000/10000kms... but is your filter good for that long too? I'd at least be flushing/dropping the oil, replacing the filter and putting the oil back in (which is probably what your mechanic is planning by making you come in 2000kms early). It's not just about how many kms are on the speedo either. If your car idles a lot, and you baby/granny it and never get into high revs territory then you're going to get a lot of carbon build up that needs to be taken care of.

You should also regularly check the spray pattern on your AFMs to make sure that they're not restricting you :D

But as Matt said. To each their own. If you're not into regular maintenance and just want periodic maintenance then fine. I'd rather spend a couple of extra bucks and give my car the best though. You could save heaps of money by doing all the minor services yourself too... just fyi.

I have just worked two 12 hour days and was supposed to have my daughter yesterday. So because of that I have to pick her up tomorrow. She lives in ipswich so I'll accompany you on part of the trip and leave you when i get to ipswich. If thats to much of a issue then I won't be able to attend at all.

So are you going to be going to Ipswich from Somerset? or...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...