Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

When replacing my turbo, what gaskets do I need?

I'm thinking:

Manifold-> turbo gasket

Turbo->dump gasket

Oil return gasket?

Am I right that the oil feed doesn't need one?

Manifold-> turbo gasket

Turbo->dump gasket

These. Althought they are fairly sturdy gaskets and if they are in good nick you might be able to re-use your current ones.

Oil return gasket?

Should just be able to remove the oil return hose so shouldn't need a new gasket here.

Am I right that the oil feed doesn't need one?

You should replace all the banjo bolt washers on the oil feed/water feed/water return. That said, a lot of people probably don't bother, but they are not very expensive so I would.

Just take the banjo bolts to enzed or something and ask for banjo washers to suit.

What exactly IS a banjo bolt?

TJ-SS07.jpg

There will be one on each end of you oil feed line, water feed line, and water return line. So 6 banjo fittings, needing a total of 12 washers. The sizes will vary, (some will be the same some different) so you will need to work out the sizes you need when you pull it off and then take them in and say "I need 4 of these ones, 8 of these ones..." etc.)

The oil return line is just a normal clamed hose. I can't remember 100% but I think the gasket you are talking about for that one is where the hose fitting connects to either the block or the turbo. But you don't need to undo it there, just undo one of the hose clamps and take the hose off.

EDIT: That picture is a little misleading, the washers are not actually copper washers but 'banjo washers'. According to the dude at Enzed when I went anyway...

Edited by Smity42

Ok so I -might- be able to re-use those washers, depending on how they look when they come out?

Should I drop my oil before I do this? Or will it just be a small amount of oil that comes out of the feed?

I should drop my coolant though, yes?

Ok so I -might- be able to re-use those washers, depending on how they look when they come out?

Should I drop my oil before I do this? Or will it just be a small amount of oil that comes out of the feed?

I should drop my coolant though, yes?

You are NOT supposed to re-use the washers. They crush when you tighten the bolt and that is how they seal. Once crushed you are not meant to re-use them.

I think some people do though, but its a bit dodgy, and you may end up with leaks.

It might only be 31 owners that re-use them...

Should be no need to drop the oil, just let the car sit for a while so that most of it drains back to the sump before you do it. You may spill a small amount but nothing much.

Water... Can't remember. You will probably lose a fair bit of it so put a drain tin down, but theres probably no need to drain it entirely. Just fill it back up and bleed it when you're finished.

Been shut for a while for the airport link work. Maybe it was only through certain hours...

Did not know that. Must only be certain hours...

The oil return line is just a normal clamed hose. I can't remember 100% but I think the gasket you are talking about for that one is where the hose fitting connects to either the block or the turbo. But you don't need to undo it there, just undo one of the hose clamps and take the hose off.

I meant on the turbo where the oil return goes in (i think thats what it is, not sure) there's like a flat surface area around the hole - looks like it needs a gasket.

Burson have a turbo gasket kit with 2 metal gaskets and 'about' 4 cork ones for $50. No washers.

What's the enzed place you mentioned?

Edited by mosquitocoils

I meant on the turbo where the oil return goes in (i think thats what it is, not sure) there's like a flat surface area around the hole - looks like it needs a gasket.

Ahh... if there is something there that you have to transfer from your old turbo to your new that needs a gasket, then yeah you will need that.

Burson have a turbo gasket kit with 2 metal gaskets and 'about' 4 cork ones for $50. No washers.

NFI what those cork ones would be. Pics?

2 metal ones would me manifold-turbo and turbo-dump I reckon.

What's the enzed place you mentioned?

enzed (http://www.enzed.com.au/) or pirtek (http://www.pirtek.com.au/) or any other hose joint really. I didn't get a mobile guy out, I just went into a store.

been up in the copper today again, brisbane is a sea of activity...

people, cars, trucks everywhere...

seems business is back to normal for the major shopping centers...

hope the people who bought 20 loaf's of bread die eating them, wankers...

Ahh... if there is something there that you have to transfer from your old turbo to your new that needs a gasket, then yeah you will need that.

Yeah I'll just suss out what I need to re-use when I get to it I guess.

NFI what those cork ones would be. Pics?

2 metal ones would me manifold-turbo and turbo-dump I reckon.

Twas over the phone my good sir so no pics, but I was guessing the same as you.

So, good thing no one went to old Baskins last night...

XF and 33s would have gotten across that...

Are we allowed to pick women folk in the mens cricket team? I reckon this Elyse Perry chick bowls better than ANY of the blokes do...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...