Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Morning Mangs,

Another week...sigh. New HDD is f**ked on my computer. Won't come up in BIOS or anything. Tried all the different sata ports and power cables, tried every combo of settings in the BIOS and no dice. Finally tried it in my mates computer and it didn't so up in his either. So I've come to the conclusion that it's f**ked.

Did an oil change on the bike and got some new brake pads for the rear. Has a dead spot at around 6k and a slight miss around 10-12k. Think it needs new fuel filter, plugs and possibly the carbs cleaned.

Another week...sigh. New HDD is f**ked on my computer. Won't come up in BIOS or anything. Tried all the different sata ports and power cables, tried every combo of settings in the BIOS and no dice. Finally tried it in my mates computer and it didn't so up in his either. So I've come to the conclusion that it's f**ked.

Should have let an expert handle it ;)

Naah sounds like its borked. Take it back.

Morning Mangs,

Another week...sigh. New HDD is f**ked on my computer. Won't come up in BIOS or anything. Tried all the different sata ports and power cables, tried every combo of settings in the BIOS and no dice. Finally tried it in my mates computer and it didn't so up in his either. So I've come to the conclusion that it's f**ked.

Where did you buy it from? Places like umart and msy have horrible warranty services, best off buying a new one

It was all going so well. I was pretty happy with myself and then this shit stupid motherf**ked hard drive. Found out it needs a firmware update aswell something about write errors not being picked up or something or other. Think I'm going to change it for a Western Digital one.

Where did you buy it from? Places like umart and msy have horrible warranty services, best off buying a new one

Yeah people say that, but the one time I have had to return something to umart I had no issues.

You login to your account on umart online, find the order, then next to the product that is faulty there is a link to click to do an RA on it. Then you take it in to them, and they sort it out.

Downside is that sometimes you have to wait while they send it back to the manufacturer before you get a replacement, but hey, that's better than not getting a replacement at all, right? I would think that in this case being DOA they will just replace it though.

The one thing I had to take back was a video card (one half of an SLI setup). When it came time to give me a replacement, they could no longer get the same one, so they offered me a free upgrade to a newer and better one. This was no good to me though due to the SLI setup, so they were more than happy to offer me the value of the 'new' one they were going to give me to put towards a new badass video card, which I did. So basically yeah, pretty happy with their warranty service myself, although it isn't fast.

It was all going so well. I was pretty happy with myself and then this shit stupid motherf**ked hard drive. Found out it needs a firmware update aswell something about write errors not being picked up or something or other. Think I'm going to change it for a Western Digital one.

What brand did you get?

You used to be able to buy a set like this from samsung, for a couple of grand

i got a 3.5m screen now in my media room...

works better than that shit...

Everyone on my floor has disappeared. Sitting here in silence by myself. Have a feeling I'm missing out on free food.

Aw.

I had a mainboard die 2 weeks after I bought it through Umart, said it would take 4 weeks for it to come back so I just bought another. It would be better if they could just give you a replacement straight up.

Argh that sucks, I haven't had any issues with samsung drives up till now :(.

Are you sure you're not doing it wrong?

Seagate and WD is all I will touch, my boss bought 2 1tb samsung drives for a machine we were building that he needed same day, few weeks later we had to rebuild the raid as a drive had failed, a month or so later the other drive died and we just ended up putting seagates in.

I just prefer to spend the extra and get a more reliable drive, have seen DOA Seagates but the failure rate isn't as high as I have seen with Samsung. Then again, it could just be a bad batch of Samsungs we encountered.

Edited by hylian

Sup,

Back in Brisbane for a Job interview this afternoon, then back down the coast for the rest of the week. Had the HICAS light come on while on the highway. Pulled off to get some water, light off. Back on the highway and 20 minutes later light back on....grrr! Then, just to make an absolute ass of my self at the first red light I come to in Brisbane I turn the engine off to reset the HICAS light and the damn thing wouldn't start up right away! Bloody turbo timer and kill switch and alarm causing me havoc and backing up traffic on Coro Drive.

I vote me for dumb ass of the day!

Seagate and WD is all I will touch, my boss bought 2 1tb samsung drives for a machine we were building that he needed same day, few weeks later we had to rebuild the raid as a drive had failed, a month or so later the other drive died and we just ended up putting seagates in.

I just prefer to spend the extra and get a more reliable drive, have seen DOA Seagates but the failure rate isn't as high as I have seen with Samsung. Then again, it could just be a bad batch of Samsungs we encountered.

I've got at least 8 samsungs spinning in my main PC, they are consumer drives (not server spec) but they run 24-7 and haven't had any issues. Also got them in my media PC, all my external drives, etc. I've been through probably at least a dozen before these ones too with no issues, and all have suffered the same abuse.

I won't touch seagate with a 20ft pole, had too many of them die on me prematurely. Maxtor were also godawful before seagate aquired them, and I do wonder if it is just the seagate drives coming out of the old maxtor factory that are bad. But there's no way to tell.

WD are my backup when samsung are not available, but I have had issues with one or two of them, but from memory when they are quite old. Hard drives are mechanical, they die after a while it is to be expected.

But yeah, im on a 100% record with Samsung so far *touch wood*.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...