Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Car alarms are worth what you pay. A cheap system, with a cheap install, is basically worthless.

Contact Chris Rodgers at Audio Express. He is basically THE guy for security measures in Brisbane.

so who knows a place which is cheap for car alarms.....i need on to get insurancepirate.gif

shoot me a PM with your budget.

And we weren't invited because................................?

Lol, sadly the only boobies I saw was on a Alice Cooper Video lol.

But then also we went to the casino I was on the $25 dollar black jack table and I got to big for my britches and lost it all lol.

Anyone who wants movember donations for their piss weak excuse for a mo, PM me a link.

I DO I DO!

just left the gold coast from a whole week of this :P....back again on monday.

as lame as it sounds ive gone home for a weekend of video games and lounging on the couch.

Lol. utterly understandable lol.

Yeah very much so. I'm planning and scheming lol. Won't be looking at it until I get back from Europe next year though. Dad is going to let me ride his bike until then once I get my license though so that should be fun lol.

true but the 1199 is just crazy

Yeah, It will be bullshit expensive aswell. Atleast the F3 is semi reasonable for a bike of that caliber. I'm guessing the 1199 will be 35k+ on road.

To a non bike rider both seem equally mad...

Yeah they're pretty crazy. I would run out of talent way before you get to what either bike is capable of, but I'd have a load of fun trying lol :thumbsup:

not really, power to weight is better then a car and its more fun

Power to weight on the 1199 is nearly the same as an F1 car lol.

Car alarms are worth what you pay. A cheap system, with a cheap install, is basically worthless.

Contact Chris Rodgers at Audio Express. He is basically THE guy for security measures in Brisbane.

+11ty

Honestly the 1198 would be a better bike... Mv's have always had overheating issues.

However I would go a new cbr1000rr over any italian bikes... if you are using them for a daily they are not worth it in the long run the price for servicing and parts are out of this world... let alone finding someone capabile of doing it.

1 of the best Moto Mechanics and tuners told me to stick to Jap bikes over Italians.... simply because they are alot better build qaulity than the Italians.

But I would go a 1198, over the Mv but I would choose the KTM RC8R over the 1198 :)

I was just looking at a 08 R1 :) but I shouldnt buy a bike since I am getting surgery on Friday because of 1 lol.

*words*

Hey Dan, have you seen the google street view of your parents house? Martin's ute is in the front yard and there is 3/4 + 1/4 of a 31 in the side yard. I lol'd

I thought I would have a look while I was street view-ing certain other things in your area. :ph34r:

Such a letdown.

I got given a 5 movie pack from someone last christmas, just found it and wanted to watch Behind Enemy Lines. As I take it out of the plastic wrapping I realise the security device is still inside and I can't open the case :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...