Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

A/C running is an easy fix. If your serious i could get carl to organise dropping it off to me so i could do a pre-roadworthy check and have a look at the A/C system. I have the machine at work to do air con. Gearbox is an easy job. same as dropping a manual into a 31. But if you buy your car back it'll take that neo from your old girl no problems. And your 4 pot front/2 pot rears will just bolt straight on as an upgrade

The one for sale looks way better than that:

IMG_0563-1.jpg

IMG_0560.jpg

IMG_0557.jpg

DSC00472__Small_-1.jpg

I see a hackable screen. looks like we can carry over more than the mechanicals.

I still have to wait to hear from the assessors first and foremost :P Don't even know if they will pay me out or repair her yet.

The Leopard would require some serious thought. If they pay me out the $18k I'll be more interested in buying a cheap to run, auto daily driver and start building a serious track car (and you know, learning how to drive properly :P .) I'm not sure if the Leopard really fits either bill correctly. I would hate to butcher such a beautiful car to gut and cage it etc for track work and I'm not sure if that really falls into the category of a cheap daily driver.

It is a beautiful car however... And I also have this 33 Noel suggested to look at... And a 34 Chris has suggested as well...

buy the leopard as the daily, it's a comfortable car to drive around, then buy that 33 noel is talking about, seems to have the power already just get to fill in the little bits needed, if they pay you out 18k then you should have enough to cover the purchase of both cars and some money left to mod them

Oh RWC is no issue

installing kyosan denso fuel pump is a pain in the rear, especially the fuel tank opening barely just big enough to fit the pump and bracket through. :3some:

so much easier in the r32 back in the days :whistling:

Yeah buy my Leopard, you know you want to. If I can't get $4500 for it I will be parting it out. That $4000 grand price was for this weekend only as there was a car on Ebay I wanted but it has gone now so it's back to the $5000 listed price.

I still have to wait to hear from the assessors first and foremost :P Don't even know if they will pay me out or repair her yet.

The Leopard would require some serious thought. If they pay me out the $18k I'll be more interested in buying a cheap to run, auto daily driver and start building a serious track car (and you know, learning how to drive properly :P .) I'm not sure if the Leopard really fits either bill correctly. I would hate to butcher such a beautiful car to gut and cage it etc for track work and I'm not sure if that really falls into the category of a cheap daily driver.

It is a beautiful car however... And I also have this 33 Noel suggested to look at... And a 34 Chris has suggested as well...

Too late she cried! The 33 is gornski. >_<

Morning Mangs,

Long time something something.

Shit is about to go down at our site. Union organiser tried to come on site without proper notice. We refused them entry and then they went on site anyway. Going to make some popcorn.

Morning Mangs,

Long time something something.

Shit is about to go down at our site. Union organiser tried to come on site without proper notice. We refused them entry and then they went on site anyway. Going to make some popcorn.

Ohhh that should be good.

Actually no, I dont. given that you conveniently extract quoted me I am going to have some fun with this for as long as I hold the powaaahhhh buttons. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...