Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm trying now to host it so you can see it better, It wouldn't let me post a bigger pic, I don't really know where your going with this but If I've made a mistake with one of the figures by a few kw thats all it is, is a mistake I tried to calculate it as best I could

Hi Buster, I am not going to scratch around for minor errors in data , just trying to get an understanding, data is my thing remember. From what I can see there is a pretty goodly amount of breathing from 5500 rpm to 7500 rpm. Is there camshafts, porting, inlet and exhaust manifolds etc holding the airflow up?

Originally posted by raist60

GHEY?! Why come in here, single out sydneykid, ask for his opinion then go ****ing nutz when he doesnt agree with you?

Some people like torquey track suited power

Some people like peakey drag suited power

Its a compromise like everything else in this fun game we play. It doesnt matter what someone else thinks of your dyno graph / quart mile times / turbo / haircut / makeup as long as you enjoy your car.

true, there is no good and bad turbo otherwise one company would be 'the be all' and the rest would be bunkrupt, its all to do with preference. But I think what is being said that Trust turbos are not a TRUCK turbo, they are performance turbos which have proven themself. And in Busters case he has a proved it.

Nothing to do with these averages and genius maths figures, i mean damn as long as it does what he wants it to do, and produces good results, its fine right? there might even be be better but everything comes at a cost.

It has tomei 264, 8mm lift cams, It also has a greddy plenum as far as I know its got some description of head work as it was listed in the specs when I bought the car but I have no idea what is done

Other then the plenum (that you don't think much of from reading your previous posts) its pretty well the same mod wise as HPI R34 I thought

i dont want to compare each others prices here.

u know its a material world, people would rather spend the extra dough and product with a name which is also proven. The Beauty of buying say a trust turbo or any name brand is its off the shelf(bolt-on), make it as easy as possible and at the end of the day you know what to expect.

it might not interest people who enjoy life researching every aspect, ins and outs, pro's and con's. but at the end of the day everyone has a different market.

You can get someone to do it all for you etc, and run the risk of them ripping you off, or go in with a set price full instructions and try yourself.

Goes for buying a computer, it would be alot cheaper building it yourself installing the software, than going to Dick Smith/Harvey Norman and buying one off the shelf, but then again everyone may not have the knowledge and experience you do.

referring to previous posts man...i just dont think there is anything wrong with the TD-06, to each there own...and you know that these turbos are much more affordable, especially in the maitanence dep.

and everything comes at a cost...if thats loosing that extra 0.9999~% then there must be something that makes up for it right?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...