Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have had this problem since I got the car and it was stock as a rock and its still the same after all these mod's !!! The engine misses with any more than 12psi boost. This week all the following gear went in-

t3/t4, FMIC,PFC,Adj Fuel Reg,Big Fuel pump,z32 afm,new plugs(copper-correct gap) and we tested every coil pack with a known good item. STILL MISSING. It runs like a dream until we go over 12psi. I have been told it could be the crank angle sensor(dry solder joints??) but we ran out of dyno time and crank angle sensors. I hope I have given enough details for some of the SA GURU's to offer some idea's.

Cheers

Stevo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/
Share on other sites

SK - AHA!! I HOPED YOU WOULD DROP IN, IT'S GOT 7'S WITH .8MM GAP. PREVIOUS TO THESE COPPERS WE TRIED IRIDIUMS ETC AT MANY GAPS AND HEAT RANGES WITH NO LUCK.

JTECH- ITS GOT A POWER FC SO NO BOOST/FUEL CUT ISSUES

I KNOW THIS SYMPTOM HAS BEEN COVERED TO DEATH BUT I THINK MY PARTICULAR PROB COULD BE AN ODD ONE.......MMMMMMMM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554211
Share on other sites

i have exactly the same problem over 12psi!!!!!!!! its very annoying so i just wind the boost down for now! and ive also done the whole experimenting with plugs, but nothing helped.

i have found that it happens alot more before full operating temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554638
Share on other sites

Have you actually set a boost cut level. Mine is set at 1.46bar If i just touch up to it in 1st or 2nd i get a misfire if i hit it hard under full load in 4th i get complete ignition cut until the revs are back down to zero then ig comes back on and i can restart.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554647
Share on other sites

Just a stab in the dark, but a mate had the same thing.

He regapped his plugs from 0.8 to 0.74 and it worked a treat - miss fire totally gone..

It's hard to believe that 0.06 mm made that much of a difference, but in his case it made the world of difference !!

Good luck.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554660
Share on other sites

Stevo is it a series 1, 1.5 or 2? if its a series 1 have you tried another igniter module? Seems like you've replaced all the normal problem parts. This sounds electrical and it"s boost related so try another MAP sensor. Hope your'e monitoring vitals on the dyno like fuel pressure, new parts can be faulty and you need to know that all your bases are covered. Hope this helps Good luck.. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-555946
Share on other sites

Common Stevo, do the leak down test, it will rule out internal problems. Then you can confidently say its external and swap bits over. We find the best way is to get another car same model and swap them, one by one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-555975
Share on other sites

Originally posted by DAMQIK GTS-T

Well I wasn't losing power that I new of but on the dyno @ 6000rpm and @ 14psi the hose sucked closed  the mixtures went really lean, (map senced ecu) those rubber hoses to the turbo are ONLY good for stock boost.

I'm not saying it's the problem but at least check it.

Lucky your car was on the dyno when it happened, you dont get too many chances with lean mixtures at load.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-556180
Share on other sites

Thanks boys! Leakdown down test next, then igniter module(its a series one). It has a new fuel filter and monitired fuel pressure on dyno OK. No rubber hose left on turbo inlet to crush. Probably look at the injectors next. Hey SK, when you used this fuel setup as an alternative to getting bigger injectors, could you get a nice smoooth idle? Some times (only first tune) it can be OK then it gets a bit grumpy/rough. Dripping/dirty injectors?.........will keep you updated guys.

Thanks for the input,

Stevo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-557096
Share on other sites

Thanks boys! Leakdown down test next, then igniter module(its a series one). It has a new fuel filter and monitired fuel pressure on dyno OK. No rubber hose left on turbo inlet to crush. Probably look at the injectors next. Hey SK, when you used this fuel setup as an alternative to getting bigger injectors, could you get a nice smoooth idle? Some times (only first tune) it can be OK then it gets a bit grumpy/rough. Dripping/dirty injectors?.........will keep you updated guys.

Thanks for the input,

Stevo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-557113
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...