Jump to content
SAU Community

Aus Standard Immob In Melbourne

siglapian
 Share

Recommended Posts

siglapian Explorer

siglapian

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I've just recently purchased a 2004 V35 Auto. Fantastic car! Used to drive a Subaru Forester Turbo, NA RWD is sooooo different.

I've read through the threads on immobilisers and keys - thanks Chris Rogers and others - but it still didn't really show what or who can be done to fit Australian Standard Immobilisers in our cars.

As my anti-theft insurance demands it, does anyone know of any shops in Melbourne who can fit immobs in our V35s? You can PM me if inconvenient, and adding the price and model would be great. Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261800-aus-standard-immob-in-melbourne/
Share on other sites
MaXiMuS007 Mentor

MaXiMuS007

Posted
Posted

Speak to Kamikaze Motors - I bought a Mongoose MAP80G (upgrade alarm, uses standard key fob) off ebay and they arranged the install. Can't remember how much it cost all up but it was good value. Works great.

BigDirtyJase Experienced

BigDirtyJase

Posted
Posted

I got a Mongoose MAP80G on my Stagea...If you want to installed take it to Stylin' I highly recommend them...I don't how much they charge for supply and fitment (I had my alarm re-wired by them). I got reccommended to them by Chris Rogers.

so yeah

skygo2xs Contributor

skygo2xs

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

A bit off the subject, I have just installed an Autowatch 446 in my recently purchased V35 coupe. I was wondering if anyone can give some advice on the best location for the bonnet switch, or where you all have them, I have left this untill last but the engine bay looks fairly limited for good locations.

Any helpfull replies appreciated.

btw this forum was and still is a great help in the recent upgrade from an R33...

ogz007 Rising Star

ogz007

Posted
Posted
Hi all,

A bit off the subject, I have just installed an Autowatch 446 in my recently purchased V35 coupe. I was wondering if anyone can give some advice on the best location for the bonnet switch, or where you all have them, I have left this untill last but the engine bay looks fairly limited for good locations.

Any helpfull replies appreciated.

btw this forum was and still is a great help in the recent upgrade from an R33...

Hey sky,

took a quick photo for you while i was in the garage. so apologies for the nokia quality.

Here is mine, located on the the near front left hand side when you opened the bonnet.

Anyway hope this helps.

24032009024.jpg

24032009023.jpg

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

they are supposed to be done on ANY car past july 2001. that said its all $$ and most have a way out of doing it..

(I know of a few shops that got into strife because of it.)

if half the cars had compliance checks I would say most would fail personally.

OGZ,

mongoose alarm :woot: bonnet pin could have been put on the same side as the siren behind the headlight.

ogz007 Rising Star

ogz007

Posted
Posted
they are supposed to be done on ANY car past july 2001. that said its all $$ and most have a way out of doing it..

(I know of a few shops that got into strife because of it.)

if half the cars had compliance checks I would say most would fail personally.

OGZ,

mongoose alarm :P bonnet pin could have been put on the same side as the siren behind the headlight.

:woot: wow cool thanks.... how good is this alarm chris? and is there anyway i can tell which model this is..? might give it a bit of a read/reviews.

skygo2xs Contributor

skygo2xs

Posted
Posted

Hey Ogz,

Thanks for taking the time to do that, very much appreciated! I couldnt actually see the bonnet switch in the photo, see the siren mounting position though.

My car did have an immobiliser installed at compliance, just the Autowatch proximity but I wanted to upgrade to full alarm, any other ideas for the bonnet switch location??

thanks all

ogz007 Rising Star

ogz007

Posted
Posted

Hey Sky,

No probs. you know what i might be on the same boat now. All along i thot this was the bonnet switch, which i can access with the key to activate/deactovate.. i wouldnt assume that this is the siren, coz it doesnt look like a siren to me at all. lol

Anyway my bad if i wasnt very helpful, i really thought that this is the main switch so i just took a quick photo.

skygo2xs Contributor

skygo2xs

Posted
Posted

No worries Ogz, I think you may find its the siren, the key switch is to turn off the siren I think, havent had much to do with Mongoose, have always installed Autowatch. Ive got a Mongoose manual I can email you if you want or dont have one. cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...