Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, i needed a clear list of modding for my R34GTT from A to Z list..i've already started the pod filter and 2nd full exhaust kit(turbo back)..im just not sure what to do next..i dont want short cuts tho..i wanted to do my car in proper way in regards to performance and power gain...so anyone can help me out??

thanx for the reply...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261906-a-z-mod-list-for-r34gt-t/
Share on other sites

Hahaha, first off, welcome and congradulations on the purchase of your ER34 GT-T.

There are a few guides out there, but they generally start like this:

Intake (either go Pod or Panel filter). If you're going a pod, then it'd be a good idea to get a heat shield for it (Ashneel on this site sells them for ER34's cheap).

Exhaust (Turbo back, with high flow cat)

ECU/Boost controller (AVC-R/Greddy management or go the hardcore and now super expenssive Power FC for the complete solution for the ECU. Boost controllers can be cheap or super expenssive. You go a manual one like a boostee (or whatever the hell they call them) and you can pick one up easy in the $150. Or you can go expessive and go EBC and get something like an Apexi AVC-R).

Once your here, then you'll be looking at either a Clutch to handle the extra power and maybe a fuel pump.

Thats about as far as most people take a street car and thats relatively a cheap amount of mods (I did all this with about 2k with some forum shopping and street smart).

Good luck mate!

Hahaha, first off, welcome and congradulations on the purchase of your ER34 GT-T.

There are a few guides out there, but they generally start like this:

Intake (either go Pod or Panel filter). If you're going a pod, then it'd be a good idea to get a heat shield for it (Ashneel on this site sells them for ER34's cheap).

Exhaust (Turbo back, with high flow cat)

ECU/Boost controller (AVC-R/Greddy management or go the hardcore and now super expenssive Power FC for the complete solution for the ECU. Boost controllers can be cheap or super expenssive. You go a manual one like a boostee (or whatever the hell they call them) and you can pick one up easy in the $150. Or you can go expessive and go EBC and get something like an Apexi AVC-R).

Once your here, then you'll be looking at either a Clutch to handle the extra power and maybe a fuel pump.

Thats about as far as most people take a street car and thats relatively a cheap amount of mods (I did all this with about 2k with some forum shopping and street smart).

Good luck mate!

thank you all for ur response, i have been told if i do pod like filter, have to get a shield for it, but dont knw where i could get one...is "ashneel" a person or a place?? just need to get in contact with him/them so i can get one ASAP, any place u know in melbourne where i can pick one up?..and one more question tho, i have been told also that i need to change the stock fuel pump first before doing anything like boosting and putting ECU on my car, now, which one should i do first?? would my stock fuel pump keep up the amount of boost (ei:12Psi) if ever i decided not to change the pump just yet or bad idea??and should i get a new boost gauge as well or leave the stock one on??before boosting my car up??

Ashneel is a user on the site, throw him a PM. Alternatively you can get shields from a few online stores.

For my money I wouldn't skimp on engine management/boost control. Check out PowerFC's, but they aren't the only option. A bit of searching on this site should uncover some options for you. For boost control you have heaps of options, such as the powerfc addon, or the greddy/blitz/etc etc. I would steer clear of basic bleed valves if only for future proofing.

Don't bother with the fuel pump/injectors until you start pushing more power. Basic mods don't generally require fuel system upgrades. As soon as you start breaking through to the moderately modified car I would suggest looking into it though.

+1 for coilovers and other suspension mods. No point pumping in more power only to have trouble getting it to the tarmac.

Welcome mate, might see you round Crown again.

cheers mate...

im just getting my hi-flow cat done so my exhaust is complete..and i think i will be getting Greddy profec b-spec II EBC soon..

do i need to get a new boost gauge as well?? as the stock one is inaccurate readings...

thankxx all

All of the mentioned above is a great way to get you started on your modifying adventure.

It's great to hear you say that you dont want "short cuts" and that you want to do it properly.

Seeing as you've done Pod and turbo back exhaust.

You can look at suspension etc.. Coil overs/dampers/castor etc.

FMIC

Aftermarket ECU "I prefer the Power FC, its what i have in my 34"

remeber, its not always about "power mods" look at your brakes and handling as well.

If you have all this power, and you skimp on braking mods.. its abit dangerous.

To give you an indication, i have a ER34 as well and the mods i've done so far are:

Full HKS turbo back exhaust

Apexi Power FC

HKS 2835 ProS turbo

HKS front mount

Koyo Alloy radiator

Blitz IBC boost controller

Aragusta Coil overs

Slotted rotors

Castor Rods

Nismo 1.5way diff.

Soon to come: RB26 Plenum, Better brake setup, Nismo Lower controll arms.

Then its time for track! :D

Remeber to get some sexy wheels and a sexy body kit and you're set.

Also a good tuner for your ECU is always good.. (so your car wont blow!)

Just my 2cents

Jin :P

thanx all...

i will be considering all your advices...for now, two things i wanted to get done ASAP,

1. Greddy profec II EBC

and

2. ECU, preferably APEXI's...

thanks again ya'll been good help..

install them at the same time, try and track down a Blitz ID3, autobarn should have them, dont get pushed into something else.

why not get a remap?

dont forget that you have a ceramic turbo wheel ....

not the strongest items. be looking at a upgrade or high flowing the turbo, or you will be picking bits of wheel out of your cooler :)

dont forget that you have a ceramic turbo wheel ..<----what sort of up grade should i be considering at??

any idea??

install them at the same time, try and track down a Blitz ID3, autobarn should have them, dont get pushed into something else.

why not get a remap?

how much is the remap?? and how and where can i get one?? is it better that way?? whats the advantage of it??

dont forget that you have a ceramic turbo wheel ..<----what sort of up grade should i be considering at??

any idea??

wouldnt have a clue, narrow down to what power you want, say 250-300kw's, that will give you a range of turbos in that power range.

then you look for one that will fit your flange, T3 i think ?

then lag ? brand ? all that shit ... it got to much for me and will just end up getting defected for it anyway .

so i just gave up and im going the highflow way. legal :)

wouldnt have a clue, narrow down to what power you want, say 250-300kw's, that will give you a range of turbos in that power range.

then you look for one that will fit your flange, T3 i think ?

then lag ? brand ? all that shit ... it got to much for me and will just end up getting defected for it anyway .

so i just gave up and im going the highflow way. legal :)

hhmmm...i think im not going to get bigger turbo's just yet, just lights mods first for the moment...id stop if i get between 230-250rwkw, that's my goal FOR NOW..then after, maybe i'd be looking at handling parts...

You won't get 230-250rwkw without a turbo upgrade, and it's unlikely your RB25 is twin turbo.

well, tough luck for me, i guess...just not really looking forward on the 2nd stage of upgrades which i guess includes bigger turbo, change clutch etc...i'd probably most happy to get on the 210-225's??..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...