Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It should just be like a normal carbon fibre bonnet... Like that whole weave patten...

Just pop your bonnet open and have a look under the bonnet to see, thats if you have a carbon fibre bonnet...

It should just be like a normal carbon fibre bonnet... Like that whole weave patten...

Just pop your bonnet open and have a look under the bonnet to see, thats if you have a carbon fibre bonnet...

Yeah I do. It looks ok but was concerned the finish on top would not be too nice as they were all meant to be painted.

I'm getting the entire car cleaned up to the most extent possible and the place suggests respray the bonnet saying

the paint looks too thin so it won't match the deep quality of a polish on the rest.. so if they want to strip it,

I was toying with the idea of just getting a clear coat on the carbon.. as the car is black anyway ..

Maybe the thin paint was kind of the point for v-spec 2.. kind of a feeble attempt at weight saving..

How paint appears in diferent light is greatly determined by if the base colours under the base coat is simular. An extreme example would be a door painted black and the panel next to it white. Then base coat in red and clear coat. In bright light the white door would appear more link an orance colour. What im saying is base preporation of the carbon bonnet was probably diferent to the rest of the car. It was probably even painted off the car by an entirely diferent part of nissan during assembly.

About the cut and polish back, I did that on my gtr about a month ago to remove the water marks. Some of the water marks were pretty deep and I had to wet rub with 1200 grit which is pretty hair raising as its a fine line as to if you go through or not. But the rest of the car I just blocked back with 2000 grit, and then used the PPG system 1 polish system.

If they are really paranoid about the bonnet and cutting back they could just use a clay block on it instead, and then hit it with the wool buff lightly folowed by the foam finishing pads.

The most important thing the guys doing the polish work will have to know is that they cant work the polisher over the bonnet at more that 1500-2000 rpm or so. This is because the heat from the buff does not get conducted away by the carbon panel underneath. Anything RPM more than that and they will burn through the paint.

I still havent photographed the car in bright light since polishing it and there are a few spots that I missed but all in all its worth doing as it restores the surface of the clear coat to prme condition again.

DSC01606.JPG

DSC01608.JPG

DSC01610.JPG

DSC01613.JPG

Edited by GTRNUR
Yeah I do. It looks ok but was concerned the finish on top would not be too nice as they were all meant to be painted.

I'm getting the entire car cleaned up to the most extent possible and the place suggests respray the bonnet saying

the paint looks too thin so it won't match the deep quality of a polish on the rest.. so if they want to strip it,

I was toying with the idea of just getting a clear coat on the carbon.. as the car is black anyway ..

Maybe the thin paint was kind of the point for v-spec 2.. kind of a feeble attempt at weight saving..

Yes, I have heard about that when they only put a thin layer of paint on just to save weight.

And as you know, painting the same colour onto plastic and carbon fibre to match the metal panels of the car, the colour is never quite right, just slightly off, but un-noticable from a 1st glance.

Getting a clear coat on the carbon would look nice and maybe have a think about the Dry Carbon look.

Kinda gives the bonnet a satin finish and looks tuff!

Yeah I do. It looks ok but was concerned the finish on top would not be too nice as they were all meant to be painted.

I'm getting the entire car cleaned up to the most extent possible and the place suggests respray the bonnet saying

the paint looks too thin so it won't match the deep quality of a polish on the rest.. so if they want to strip it,

I was toying with the idea of just getting a clear coat on the carbon.. as the car is black anyway ..

Maybe the thin paint was kind of the point for v-spec 2.. kind of a feeble attempt at weight saving..

A little off topic but is that Silica breath/breeze? If so do you have any more pics because that is the colour I am looking at doing my car in.

cheers,

Michael

A little off topic but is that Silica breath/breeze? If so do you have any more pics because that is the colour I am looking at doing my car in.

cheers,

Michael

mine is black.. which in the sun shows every tiny dust particle and smudge as if lit professionally & individually by studio experts

using tiny arc lights, to best show their true dusty nature.

did you mean the pics above posted by GTRNUR? in which case thats the millenium jade color because it's a nur.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...