Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my power fc tuned last night by Guiltoy,

Seems to run out of fuel at high rpm, he thinks its the fuel pump.

So question is, what fuel pump should i get for a mildly tuned 32 Gtr?

He recomended a Bosch 040, and i've seen Walbro 500hp in-tank pumps for $195 on sau.

Any experience or insight would be appreciated

-Michael-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/
Share on other sites

Bosch pumps are far superior to walbro.

Guilt-tripper told you Bosch, you trust him with your tune...so trust his advice on fuel pumps too.

The Bosch item is about $40 more...people who skimp on products are always the ones who scream the loudest when it goes 'pop'.

Its your fuel system...its keeping your engine alive...stick your hand in your pocket and put in a decent pump.

BTW...my 1000hp GTR uses an 040 as a lift pump.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489502
Share on other sites

Get a Bosch 044 and get it installed properly. Then it will be an intake pump :P And will run more HP than 040

if its a 300kw car an 040 would be better as all the 044 will do is cycle more fuel through the rail, unnecessarily heating the fuel and robbing the engine of horsepower.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489518
Share on other sites

You doing it youself or getting some one else to install it? If yourself, get a Nismo/Tomei one, piece of piss to install and no 1/4 tank bullshit surging. Trust me, when you have to install the 040 you will be kicking yourself for not spending the extra coin on the nismo/tomei one. They are annoying to install, helped to do one in my mates 15, never again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489519
Share on other sites

You doing it youself or getting some one else to install it? If yourself, get a Nismo/Tomei one, piece of piss to install and no 1/4 tank bullshit surging. Trust me, when you have to install the 040 you will be kicking yourself for not spending the extra coin on the nismo/tomei one. They are annoying to install, helped to do one in my mates 15, never again.

slice of urine in a R32 GTR...15mins tops. If put in right (in the bucket with the proper mount and clip) it wont surge as the bucket is filled by the reg. return line.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489530
Share on other sites

Yeah but is that because you have done 14,000 of them? I'm sure if i did one again now, it would take me half the time. However if this is his first attempt (like mine was), im pretty sure there will be some swearing involved.

However maybe you are right and R32 GTR's are easy, never done one of them personally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489546
Share on other sites

Had same probs with gtr making 340kw running a little close to the edge fuel, Installed a Bosch 023 intank (using the DIY thread on SAU) and added an adjustable regulator bumping the pressure up a bit from 30 to 45 PSI and it has solved the problems.

Pump-$170 new

Reg-$165 new

Clamp-$5 new

Edited by doubled
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4491987
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...