Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Handbrake

stenve

By stenve,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
Posted (edited)

Has anyone changed a handbrake on a R33 before?

ive had a search and nothing, one other thread asking about it but no one seemed to know. so i thought id try again

Basically car came with a stupid drift button thing, so i want to take out the existing handbrake and put in the new standard one i have.

however i am pretty sure the cable needs to be taken completly out then reinserted through the new handbrake.

Is there a splitter box near the rear wheels where i can detach it? or does it have to come off at the hubs?

anything i should need to know before i go trying to pull it out tomorrow?

Cheers

Edited by stenve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262458-changing-handbrake/
Share on other sites
lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

the end of the cable is threaded to take a 10 mill nut isnt it?? and that is also the adjuster . so if you wind the nut right off the cable will come out of the hand brake lever . ?????? thats what i remember

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted

yeah as far as i can remember there is a 10mm nut and bolt setup on the actual handbrake lever under the centre console. had to tighten mine a while ago. i guess its just like lachlan said, you should be able to undo it all the way and it comes off. cant remember 100% though. GL

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah that 10mm nut will undo and you can adjust tension, but the bolt is too large to slide out the end of the handbrake lever.

so the car is now up on stands and ive found the splitter where it goes out to the two wheels, got to get that undone now

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so yesterday i found that the splitter under the car is a no go.

what you need to do is at the bottom of the handbrake lever where the cable goes in... you need to bash out the end with a punch so the cable and all will come out.

then you put the new handbrake in and press the end assembly back in.

If that makes sense.

Thats the only way i could figure out how to do it, its f**king hard to get out though.

all that just to change a handbrake :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • niZmO_Man
      For Sale 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 GT350 Premium

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      You need to put location and price
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • tridentt150v
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By tridentt150v · Posted

      Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...