Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I've had the strangest issue recently. When I speed up to around 80km/hr I can feel the steering wheel shift to the left and then it stays on an angle until I slow back down where it straightens back up.

I have a feeling that it has something to do with the speed sensitivity of the power steering as it seems to happen at around the point you would expect the steering to be heavier.

Anyone got any ideas on what the issue might be? Only noticed it occurring on Friday.

Cheers,

Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262583-power-steering-issue/
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the position of the steering wheel?

If so, sounds to me like it might be a loose steering rack on the mounts. Could be caused by worn standard rubber bushes.

Happy to take a look if you need/want. :(

Yep this is Hicas playing up...

I have found that whenever I do a wheel alignment or anything where I turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock with the engine off, the Hicas computer goes into some sort of diagnostic mode.

The symptom of this is that the Hicas rack seems free to float or do what it wants. The first thing you notice is you have to correct for this with the steering wheel. Typical the wheel is 10deg of centre on straight road...

The way I fix this particular issue is to stop the car, turn off engine with wheels facing forward. Wait 10-20 secs and then start the car again. All is fine after that.

Now this 'may' be what is happening with your car. OR it could be a fault with Hicas..but definitely something to do with Hicas..

It seems to be more like 30degrees off centre. It is also perfectly straight at low speed, I can FEEL it shift when i speed up.

R Dirty 3 It would be great if you could have a look sometime, I head up to Ellenbrook pretty often anyway.

Have a HICAS lock bar in my boot, should probably get around to installing it.

Cheers,

Greg.

It seems to be more like 30degrees off centre. It is also perfectly straight at low speed, I can FEEL it shift when i speed up.

R Dirty 3 It would be great if you could have a look sometime, I head up to Ellenbrook pretty often anyway.

Have a HICAS lock bar in my boot, should probably get around to installing it.

Cheers,

Greg.

Put the lockbar in and then take it to Brad to be re-aligned, you won't regret it :P

Mine did this too.

My problem was the result of the HICAS ring location in the boss kit being out of alignment due to the adhesive coming unstuck.

The HICAS thought that the steering wheel was in a turned position and shot the rear wheels out. Twas funny crabwalking down the road at speed.............

Throw out the HICAS. Best move you could make.

ok we ripped that shit out tonight, 3 hours or so of work.

Noone mentioned how f**ked up the bolts are that hold in the hicas actuator thingimy, a good hour of that 3 hours was me grunting and pulling at a huge breaker bar to get a 1/8th turn out of the damn thing-.-

Ah well, got it off in the end. Can anyone clarify which of the boxes under my parcel tray is the hicas one? Is it the one stamped with NISSAN on the passenger side, or the other one on the drivers side?

Hi am new in here. Am driving a R34GTT. Well I seem to have this same problem but mine is the steering wheel to drive stairght I need the steering wheel at abt 5 degrees to the right. Even after alignment done they had to manaully drive and adjust the toe to the fronts for the steering wheel to drive staright but after driving a while it well go back to the same?? Done 3 alignments from differeent places the last was at Malaga Suspensions the got the steering wheel centre but still can when ard 100km/h it starts to pull to the right. Can it be what you guys are talking abt tht my HICAS is also f**ked? And how to confirm? Hope you guys can help me out?? Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...