Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262696-weight-reduction/
Share on other sites

remove cast iron six and fit alloy v8 lol. no sounds like you have most of the bases covered.

could look into rim weights, sometimes can find 1.5kg per rim, depending on what you start with.

there is a couple of kilos saving in molly cage.

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

You should think about reducing/relocating weight in the following order:

Reduce unsprung weight, ie wheels/tyres/brakes etc.

Reduce weight in anything that rotates eg flywheels, pulleys, cam gears.

Reduce sprung weight eg most of your list by either getting rid of gear or replacing it with lighter equivalents.

Relocate weight (Lower, more centred, more towards the rear).

You need to do all the annoying/bullshit things to if you are serious. Like redundant brackets, wiring looms etc etc.

I would avoid drilling holes & removing structural metal unless you really know what you are doing.

Also there is a bundle of weight to be saved in the exhaust, engine bay (brackets, breathers, blank plates, emission control gear etc etc etc), cabin (wiring, HVAC)...

But the best advice I ever got went as follows:

Go on a diet you fat fk.

The advantage of being lighter/fitter is less stress/fatigue in the car & hence better concentration.

Edited by djr81

As stated you're doing pretting good so far. My 32 went on the diet last year removing all that was not used, still have not had a chance to weigh it.

There is alot to save in removing/replacing wiring which i was taliking to Dane (phunkymonkey) in this section last year. I removed all the unused wire in my car. From memory the looms (cabin, boot and engine bay but not the engine one yet) went from around 13-14kg to 7 or 8kg total. More can be saved by re-runing it completely with a better quality of wire. Also the looms have extra wire in them such as earths that are from the boot that attach near the fire wall and there is alot of extra length that can be cut out and re-joined. I was planning on making replacement looms this year for all makes, and custom ones out of special light weight wire but has been put on hold due to the current climent.

Ross

thanks guys, i may hold off on using a hole saw then lol.

Like someone said i'll be cutting off the loose brackets etc that are designed for everyday usage (eg brackets for rear seats etc).

I'm using Work Meisters 18x9,10's on the car. and have 4 piston calipers front.

I am building a 26/30 for it atm, so a lot of those items will be lighter and balanced to suit.

I think my main concern is 'chopping' the loom up... as i dont wont to stuff it up. Do you simply untape the loom, and trace back the wires not needed back to the ecu plug - so any guidance on this would be awesome!!!!

realistically (like most) i'm planning on working with what i have, which is probably already a heavier car than most and try and lighten it as much as possible retaining most of my re-usable parts at a minimum cost.

so please continue with the help, i appreciate it!

Oh an BTW i weigh f*ckall :P so cant help in that department lol

Are you located in Vic if so i can help with the looms.

Its not that hard just work out which plugs you need, remove the others including wire. Most car companys only use one or two looms for all their cars. I have a manual 32 gtst however the looms will suit a gts/gtr,auto,abs and all other options so there is heaps that can go.

I also removed the air con and heater so out went all the wireing and controlls for that. Once i can ill start the replacement looms i was talking about it will make it easy as you can just order it then plug it in.

Ross

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...