Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i'm just curious what is the best oil to use in my RB25. It currently has 126,000 KM's. I changed the oil around 2,000KM's ago and used a Nulon 15w-50.

What do you guys use? I mean, thicker, thinner, etc?

Cheers!

I got a 96 R33, use 0w30 mobil synthetic. There are heaps of threads regarding what oil to use

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4506766
Share on other sites

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4508994
Share on other sites

I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509435
Share on other sites

I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

was the engine hot?

Usually to get accurate oil readings you have to drive it around till it hits operating temp. Stop the car and let it rest for about 5 mins (to let the oil drop down) and then check the oil.

Pull the stick out, wipe it and put it back in. When you take it out again, that's how much oil is left in the sump.

If you did that, ignore the above haha. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509744
Share on other sites

i used to run Castrol EDGE 10W-60, valvoline 15w-40 and nulon 10w-40 but then i finally decide to settle with Motul 300V 10w-40 (gotta admit its expensive), all synthetic, nothing less.

how much oil did u put in? RB25s carry 4.7L including oil filter. i used to run 10W-60(pretty thick stuff) and 15W-40 and had no oil consumption, though it takes awhile 2 warm up

Edited by R33_NICK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509977
Share on other sites

lol

i have a feeling this debate on what brand of oil to use can go on forever... Basially tho theres a few things you need to look at

1. 100% fully synthetic... Like Mobil 1 or most other high end brands like redline.

2. Cold weight... should be max of 15... lowest of 0. This weight doesnt matter as much, as this is only when its cold... when it heats up it will get thicker. Thinner oil is better for cold start up anyway as it takes less time to move around and coat all ur engine parts. Its not like you are going to be thrashing the car while its cold. Easy driving only!

3. Hot weight... should be around 30-50... i wouldnt go anything above 50 as its a bit thick for street use.

Other then that theres not much else to think about.

So why do i use mobil 0-40? (apart from the above) Xspeed who check out my car recommended me to use it... so i did.

Edited by br3ndan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510132
Share on other sites

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

+1

and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Nah sorry mate, i think you miss understood what i was saying. I had a skyline r33 low 100k km's just my reccomendations for his.

And also nissan i believe they reccomend 7.5w/30 in the 350z its a semi synthic i think... pretty much watery as.. its not too shabby so i dnt use it.

Also what problems have you seen lol? I've head some burn oil, maybe that super light thin oil justs run pasts the rings lol?

Edited by Mr_GaZZa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510581
Share on other sites

Haha i always seem to create threads that turn into debates :sick:

I think i'll try to Motul 300v chrono oil and see how it goes.

I put in 4.5 litres of oil when i last changed it, so it wasn't full but it was close to it.

I was thinking, as the oil passes through the turbo, maybe it is burning oil? My brother told me he saw a little bit of blue smoke but that was a few weeks ago and he recommended changing the oil to a diff viscosity and it shouldnt burn any....

Anywho, thank you all for your input, i will try a different oil and let you know how it goes!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4511522
Share on other sites

and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

30/50 oil?

If u look again closely, i was saying thats the hot weight a skyline street driver should be looking out

0-15 is the cold weight that a skyline street driver should look at.

i did not mean the cold weight being 30 and the hot weight bbeing 50 :S not even a commodore should be running that!

So far ive been using mobil 1 and ive blown no blue smoke and it doesnt seem to use a drop of oil.

Ive also heard good things about motul 300v chrono.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4512560
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...