Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Mount Intercoolers

Trozzle

By Trozzle,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Why am I hearing that to register a vehicle with an aftermarket FMI, or at least a vehicle that isn't fitted stock with a FMI, you are required to have an engineer's certificate?

The list of PDF files StinkyPoo linked to in the Turbo Timer thread didn't seem to have anything relating to air-intake of the engine, be it Turbos, Superchargers, pod-filters or anything...unless I missed it lol

Anyone got anything solid on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263430-front-mount-intercoolers/
Share on other sites
nerm Mentor

nerm

Posted
Posted

i was told that you could only have one intake mode.. ie pod filter or intercooler.. not both. if you have more than one you need to get it engineered.

im not saying that the above statement is correct, that is what i was told but the engineer

i got my pod filter engineered because i had to do my coilovers so i thought i might as well do that too. i also got my pedals and boost gauge engineered

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

That's what I've heard also...So if the only engine mods on a car I'm looking at are FMI and Turbo-back exhaust, it *should* be ok? :wub:

Also, by "engineered" you mean certified, or (re)fitted by an engineer?

Approximately how much that cost?

Thanks

Edited by Trozzle
StinkyPoo Mentor

StinkyPoo

Posted
Posted

Yeh, I don't think many cops would pick on you cos it's soo easy to remove a FMIC. Anyways, here is the section of text:

1.1 MODIFICATIONS NOT REQUIRING CERTIFICATION

• Fitting a replacement new, used or reconditioned engine.

• Fitting a manufacturer’s optional engine together with any associated components as supplied by the manufacturer for that same model vehicle.

• Fitting replacement original equipment (or equivalent) engine and exhaust components.

• Fitting replacement original equipment, equivalent or better, components that have no influence on engine performance or emissions. (e.g. higher volume oil pump than original)

In all of the above cases, if the engine is modified, it must be certified under the relevant Approval Code.

1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA APPROVAL CODES

• Fitting equivalent engines (within 20% of original power and engine mass).

• Fitting performance engines.

• Installing a supercharger or turbocharger.

• Modifying engines and engine components.

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted

One reason is that generally to fit a FMIC you need to cut extra holes in your car for pipework.

If you cut holes without reinforcing hole perimeter you have reduced structural integrity of Monocoque chassis..(technically anyway).

Any modifications to car chassis obviously needs to be engineer certified...

There are other regulations that are State dependant...

nerm Mentor

nerm

Posted
Posted

i used john wilson of AKZ engineering. cost me $550 to engineer my coilovers, pod filter, non standard wheels, boost gauge, aftermarket pedals and turbo timer. it took about a week to get the report back from him andi had no issues getting my car registered. i know some people have had problems with him.. i believe one was naughtyruski

W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
Posted
i used john wilson of AKZ engineering. cost me $550 to engineer my coilovers, pod filter, non standard wheels, boost gauge, aftermarket pedals and turbo timer. it took about a week to get the report back from him andi had no issues getting my car registered. i know some people have had problems with him.. i believe one was naughtyruski

I've dealt with John on my previous car modification pre-skyline.. Not going to say anything here.

I went to Ray Spence to get my engineering done (POD, Wheels, FMIC, Exhaust) for $550. Took 8 hours to get the report in my hands (dropped off in the morning, picked up in the arvo). I think it was Mick that actually put me on to Ray Spence (cheers for that).

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the note of needing an engineer's cert for mods, where I read that, it also stated that interstate certificates are sufficient. Would a Queensland "modplate" count for this? If all mods have been certified and the car has been given this "modplate", I'm wondering if that will count enough.

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

Posted
Posted
I've dealt with John on my previous car modification pre-skyline.. Not going to say anything here.

I went to Ray Spence to get my engineering done (POD, Wheels, FMIC, Exhaust) for $550. Took 8 hours to get the report in my hands (dropped off in the morning, picked up in the arvo). I think it was Mick that actually put me on to Ray Spence (cheers for that).

x2 about not saying anything, I could say a massive amount.

I highly recommend Ray Spence. :cool:

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Called Dickson Motor Registry this arvo, the modplate doesn't count for anything unless it's backed up by signed paperwork...that isn't necessarily a problem at this point, at least all the mods are done properly so getting an engineer's certificate from Ray when I've got the car won't be a trouble...only more money >.<

Other than the engineer's certificate, can anyone see any real reason I shouldn't grab this car while I can? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ht-t242518.html

Currently asking $14000 (plus $521 to send it to Canberra), and it has a new clutch as stated on the last page.

Thanks :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...