Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Aparently the 400r bar was fitted to a series 1 gtst but the place who sold it said it would fit series 1 or 2....

If it is a series 1 bar, what would need to be altered to make it fit????

As you can see i have about a 2 cm gap between the head light and my current gtr bar already (in the pic).... also there is a 1cm over hang of the front bar at the wheel arch (in the pic)

i have searched but some people say the bar needs to be stretched to fit, and others say the bar is too wide and will sit an inch under the headlights.......

also would rather people who have done it or know for sure what happens when a series 1 bar is put on a series 2 car.... i am starting to think that the bar already on my car was made for a series 1 gtr.... although the bar is fibreglass and ive been told fibre glass warps and sags....

Can anyone tell if its a series 1 or 2 bar just by looking at it???

also my reo bar has already been mutilated to fit the original gtr bar, and i have a grinder handy and can get someone to weld up something else to suite if need be...

post-53255-1238488293_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1238488316_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1238488385_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1238488753_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1238488921_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1238490733_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1238490775_thumb.jpg

I think it will fit, as the GTR front bar and that of a GTS-T is very similiar only that the GTR has flared wheel arches.

What you will need to do is fold the ends in a bit more and then re-fibreglass it back before sanding and the repainting.

I hope that makes sense...however, it does look very nice. Where possible, try to do this yourself as a panel shop will charge you an arm and a leg for labour as it does require a lot of work.

Good luck.

makes sense..... so this is assuming that the copy gtr bar has allowed room for the flares.

does any one have any sugestions about the gap between the bar and the headlights????

pm me your address, maybe i can come past on sunday.

Difference is in the headlights, they sit a different distance from the radiator.

its not that theres a gap really, but that the headlights are forward/backward in the middle. best bet is to just put it on and see where it sits. As long as its a GTST 400r style bar not a GTR one, there should be no other issues.

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
400r bar will fit both ser1 and ser2

Yeah of course it would...but if it's a GTR-spec 400R front bar, then let us know forget those big-arse front guards...so to answer his question...yes, but you will have to fold the sides o the bar in a bit and re-fibreglass it to fit flush...

What I did was get a the same bar but instead spent the cash and labour and get genuine R33 GTR front guards...my R33 looks fat as hell now....definitely worth every penny!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...