Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey my mrs a/c in her car hasnt been working lately thought it was the gas so i got the guy to come regas it. Gas filled up but a/c still doesnt work, the compressor kicks in but it does not go cold!!! so he put a wire from the battery to a little thing near the compressor and the air con went cold.. he said its the a/c unit inside the car it might be faulty so i changed the climate control unit with another working one and it still doesnt work!!!

BUT sometimes it decides it wants to work and it gets really cold, and sometimes it just not very cold but its cold, and sometimes it just dont feel like goin cold what so ever!! So anyone have any ideas of what this could be ?!!?!??!!?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263618-help-with-my-mrs-ac/
Share on other sites

Hey my mrs a/c in her car hasnt been working lately thought it was the gas so i got the guy to come regas it. Gas filled up but a/c still doesnt work, the compressor kicks in but it does not go cold!!! so he put a wire from the battery to a little thing near the compressor and the air con went cold.. he said its the a/c unit inside the car it might be faulty so i changed the climate control unit with another working one and it still doesnt work!!!

BUT sometimes it decides it wants to work and it gets really cold, and sometimes it just not very cold but its cold, and sometimes it just dont feel like goin cold what so ever!! So anyone have any ideas of what this could be ?!!?!??!!?????

Yep its a common problem with R32's

The problem is actually inside the Hot/Cold mix door actuator (aka the motor and control unit that decides how much hot/cold air to let in).

You'll find this module over the gearbox but up against the firewall between the two leg areas in the front area...

There is a guide here somewhere which tells you what to do, but its a 5 minute soldering job (to fix the dry joints)

Problem is, it takes a fair while to get to the unit - perhaps a professional can do it fast but it took me a couple of hours to get to it...

-D

on a related subject, my work car (BF Falcon) is just out of new car warranty and occasionally over last weekend would blow a mist thru the vents......don't know if it's smoke, vapour or what the heck??!

partial leak in the heater core or an leak in the ventilation hosing leading to some precipitation inside the pipe - I would guess at a long long long shot

-D

One thing I learnt from older cars was to leave them in vent(outside circulation) when not in use or turned off so the condesation can evaporate. If we leave them on internal circulation , the vents are closed and this can result in rusting out of the aircon/heater boxs.

common problem in the 32's =[

Yeah... and I spent 6 months trying to figure out WTF was wrong till steve posted me that link up above with the DIY howto...

Once I had the unit out, the dry joints were very visible.. got a mate to solder them for me, took him all of 5 minutes...

Well worth doing when the heat of summer hits (last summer I had to use open-window aircon which SUCKED) but now its all done, I'm very happy to have AC back - you don't realize how much u love it till its gone

Sure, it might take you half a day but if it saves you several hundred dollars, give it a shot!

-D

People use air cons in 32's?

Mine ran like a dogs ball when I put the air con on!

depends on how much power the engine has. yeah there is a power loss when the compressor engages but if you have 220kw then you're not likely to notice it much...

other trick is to use 'econ' instead of 'a/c' to cool the car. it just sets the compressor temperature a tad higher (2 degrees I think) and that keeps the compressor from activating as much

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
×
×
  • Create New...