Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Brought a greddy infometer and it all works great, There is an option to set warning levels on all of the things it measures e.g. water temp exhaust temp etc etc.

Can anyone tell me the warning points for the below;

Water Temp

Exhaust Temp

Injector Rate

Eng Temp

Intake Temp

And anything else i should be keeping an eye on?

Also what is the normal running temps for the above?

Any help would be great.

cheers

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263747-warning-levels/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys

Brought a greddy infometer and it all works great, There is an option to set warning levels on all of the things it measures e.g. water temp exhaust temp etc etc.

Can anyone tell me the warning points for the below;

Water Temp

Exhaust Temp

Injector Rate

Eng Temp

Intake Temp

And anything else i should be keeping an eye on?

Also what is the normal running temps for the above?

Any help would be great.

cheers

Nick

Err, um.

Water Temp: Somewhere in 100 degree mark.

Exhaust Temp: Depends on where the sensor is located & the exhaust you are running. Also on the tune. The richer the AFR the cooler the exhaust.

Injector Rate: This won't change from the maximum point reached when the car is tuned. In other words it is next to impossible to suddenly find yourself with a high(er) injector duty cycle.

Eng Temp: Not sure, how is this different from water temp? Or oil temp? What is it measuring?

Intake Temp: Not worth monitoring. If it is a hot day & you are stationary you will get a high inlet temp. It will reduce as soon as you move off. In other words a high reading wont normally hurt the car.

Other things you should keep an eye on: oil temperature & pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263747-warning-levels/#findComment-4511989
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...