Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

my mate is selling his r33 s1 mines ecu, very mild tune. Came of r33 s1 manual, pod filter, 3" exhaust, fmic.

not moving from $300 as its a safe tune.

pick up welcome from sydney. delivery is $10 express post.

Any more info on the tune? Hows the fuel efficiency and how was it mapped?

fuel effeciency feels the same as it was when it was stock only because in stock i kept hitting r&r and using alot of un-tuned fuel...

this map seems to take out all flat spots, but does go really well compared to stock i personally love it.

idles alot smoother to my stock ecu (after i got exhaust)

<br />fuel effeciency feels the same as it was when it was stock only because in stock i kept hitting r&r and using alot of un-tuned fuel...<br /><br />this map seems to take out all flat spots, but does go really well compared to stock i personally love it.<br /><br />idles alot smoother to my stock ecu (after i got exhaust)<br />
<br /><br /><br />

ah ok,sounds good. would it need any dyno tuning if i put it into my car? and how much power did you make with it?

<br />please research "mines ecu" alot of information on them, its just a chipped ecu, which i prefer as it maintains all the safety features of the stock ecu, which in my beliefs the jap engineers seem to have got right.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Hey man, ok Im pretty interested here, but just want to know, do I need to have a fmic on my car for it to work properly? (since yours has been tuned for it). wud i need to get a front mount for my car run alright?

With a mines ecu are they model specific or can u run them on both series 1 & 2?

Also could u post the Mines serial number in the first thread so i can look up the specs for it as i have one tuned for massive mods and am interested in yours.

cheers Davo.

davo where is the serial number found? also could you advise how i can search the specs too for future reference?

all the specs are on the mines site (mite need to google/translate some of it). Umm a mate is using my ecu atm so i cant check but from memory it has a gold and silver mines sticker on it and on one of those is a serial or reference number. I remember trying to look up stats ages ago its a bit of a hassel tho.

ill get the details soon, in the meantime do you mind posting the link to that section of the sitE?

http://www.mines-wave.com/

email them the Mines Plaque serial number and they will email u back with something like this:

Thank you for your email and query.

ECU Serial number shows the following tuning specs:

1. Removed the Speed Limiter

2. Reset the injection and ignition timing

3. Expanded the rpm from 7700 upto 8200 within the Rev Limiter

4. This VX-ROM is for CA18DET, MT, vehicle year (May.1989 - January.1992).

Oh forgot to say on that link click the english version banner then click the inquiry banner then click the Q3 link. Then all u have to do is fill in info of ya car and they'll get bak to ya wif whats done to that ecu.

Also did u hear any ping on 98 octane fuel? and when u installed ya mines ecu did u check your base timing?

Edited by Driftin~Davo
I've emailed them twice with no reply, are you sure these guys understand english?

Either way specs or no specs from the japs, the car was running the mentioned above with safe a/fs.

By safe A/F's did u measure using a wideband meter with a 3rd gear launch to redline on aus fuel 98 octane?

Also would ya mate b interested in trading with my mines? I can get the specs for ya but my mate that is borrowing it said runs way to ritch with stanard injectors.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...