Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

my mate is selling his r33 s1 mines ecu, very mild tune. Came of r33 s1 manual, pod filter, 3" exhaust, fmic.

not moving from $300 as its a safe tune.

pick up welcome from sydney. delivery is $10 express post.

Any more info on the tune? Hows the fuel efficiency and how was it mapped?

fuel effeciency feels the same as it was when it was stock only because in stock i kept hitting r&r and using alot of un-tuned fuel...

this map seems to take out all flat spots, but does go really well compared to stock i personally love it.

idles alot smoother to my stock ecu (after i got exhaust)

<br />fuel effeciency feels the same as it was when it was stock only because in stock i kept hitting r&r and using alot of un-tuned fuel...<br /><br />this map seems to take out all flat spots, but does go really well compared to stock i personally love it.<br /><br />idles alot smoother to my stock ecu (after i got exhaust)<br />
<br /><br /><br />

ah ok,sounds good. would it need any dyno tuning if i put it into my car? and how much power did you make with it?

<br />please research "mines ecu" alot of information on them, its just a chipped ecu, which i prefer as it maintains all the safety features of the stock ecu, which in my beliefs the jap engineers seem to have got right.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Hey man, ok Im pretty interested here, but just want to know, do I need to have a fmic on my car for it to work properly? (since yours has been tuned for it). wud i need to get a front mount for my car run alright?

With a mines ecu are they model specific or can u run them on both series 1 & 2?

Also could u post the Mines serial number in the first thread so i can look up the specs for it as i have one tuned for massive mods and am interested in yours.

cheers Davo.

davo where is the serial number found? also could you advise how i can search the specs too for future reference?

all the specs are on the mines site (mite need to google/translate some of it). Umm a mate is using my ecu atm so i cant check but from memory it has a gold and silver mines sticker on it and on one of those is a serial or reference number. I remember trying to look up stats ages ago its a bit of a hassel tho.

ill get the details soon, in the meantime do you mind posting the link to that section of the sitE?

http://www.mines-wave.com/

email them the Mines Plaque serial number and they will email u back with something like this:

Thank you for your email and query.

ECU Serial number shows the following tuning specs:

1. Removed the Speed Limiter

2. Reset the injection and ignition timing

3. Expanded the rpm from 7700 upto 8200 within the Rev Limiter

4. This VX-ROM is for CA18DET, MT, vehicle year (May.1989 - January.1992).

Oh forgot to say on that link click the english version banner then click the inquiry banner then click the Q3 link. Then all u have to do is fill in info of ya car and they'll get bak to ya wif whats done to that ecu.

Also did u hear any ping on 98 octane fuel? and when u installed ya mines ecu did u check your base timing?

Edited by Driftin~Davo
I've emailed them twice with no reply, are you sure these guys understand english?

Either way specs or no specs from the japs, the car was running the mentioned above with safe a/fs.

By safe A/F's did u measure using a wideband meter with a 3rd gear launch to redline on aus fuel 98 octane?

Also would ya mate b interested in trading with my mines? I can get the specs for ya but my mate that is borrowing it said runs way to ritch with stanard injectors.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...