Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've spent the last couple of months adjusting new wider front and rear fenders for my R33 GTSt.

It was going to get a big airbrush paintjob on the sides, but keeping the original Light Silver paint as a base.

All of this went to pieces as i used a hot air blower to get rid of our company vinyls on the sides. Everything was going well when i pulled off the vinyls but then they started to go 'POP'.. leaving me big spots where the paint had stuck on the vinyls. This was appaerently because of bad work preparing for new paint from an earlier accident.

I couldnt decide what new color to go for, thought of all neon-colors i could but i like the factory look so after some real headbanging i went for the greenish 'Millenium Jade' found on the R34 GTR V-Spec II Nür.

But i still wanted too do something fun with the fenders, my priginal thought was to use screws to fit them, and really show the screws as they give a raw look to it. This i couldnt to cause the material was to thin. Fortunatly a friend if mine stopped by and said i might as well paint some pops on them. And then it grew to getting some rust-effect to it.

This was all good but not 100% great until another friend of mine told me, since i already was going to paint my Carbonfiber-bonnet (this is the whole Forgive me father-part), to paint some on the bonnet aswell! I know not all like CF painted but i think this will connect the style of the rear fenders with the style on the front :D

I'm going to get the trunk-lockhole painted too just to get it all connected in some way to each other.

Heres how it all looks with 2 layers of clear coat on, sanded with 800-paper and getting another 2 layers of clear coat:

post-25855-1238782003_thumb.jpg

post-25855-1238782014_thumb.jpg

post-25855-1238782138_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hopefully itll have that unique look to it, without taking it to far :P The original idea was to go for a race/drift/timw-attack look, with tons of vinyls but somewhere on the road it took a turn for something else ;)

The millenium paint is getting a bit darker, and getting a nice depth thanks to the clear coat. I saw it painted with only 2 layers and no extra sanding, it looked great but flat! The only thing that worries me somewhat is that i've always thought that an R33 shouldnt be painted green, doesnt fit the sort of lame/dull shapes of it. And then i went and painted mine green :cool:

Ill update with pics of it in the beginning of next week, got to hurry though, im going to a carshow on thursday morning and getting some parts on monday, the rest on tuesday afternoon... So im planning to get forgiven by God for painting the CF and try to get him to change a day from 24 to 36 hours.. Hope it works ;)

+1 for i think its looking good,

Rust is a different idea as usually most people HATE to see rust on their cars..

...

though i guess if rust starts to come through few years later you can say "i did that on purpose, part of the effect"

:cool:

Im doing everything when it comes to preparation such as alignment and adjusting parts, stripping it down and also sanding it down, myself, good way of learning new things and it'll feel nice when its done :devil:

The only thing i dont do myself is the laying the paint and airbrushing, havent got myself into that yet :)

With the rust effect, I wonder what happens when RTA inspector sees it.

They are gonna wanna have a deeper look into the car. They'll think hey whats happenin hear.

And prob bitch slap u for somethin else the pricks if they can't pin u for that.

But yeh, LOOKS TOUGH MAN!.

Very unique.

love the colour mate very nice.

Whats with the wrinkles in the paint on your tail lights though?

Thanks mate, cant wait to get it back from the paint iwth the last 2 layers of clear coat laid down! Will deffinetly post pics of that :)

Got me worried there! But the wrinkles are simply reflections from stuff on the right side of me, otherwise i'd be very unhappy with the result :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...