Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

mate has a stock GTT manual, no mods

told me his boost gauge (stock one) still shows boost at 2.5k rpm but at that amount of revs there is actually no boost at all

he can't feel anything and boost never comes on, says all his piping and wires are done properly and nothing looks wrong

could it be his airflow that's the problem?

actually, he says he LOSES power after 2.5k rpm but the gauge still shows

he's just sms'ing me and i haven't been able to check out his car, anyone have any idea as to how we can diagnose this problem?

any advice would be massively appreciated, cheers!

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264203-not-boosting/
Share on other sites

maybe its to do with the turbine ? maybe the fins broke off and lodge somewhere ? could that be a possibility ... remember Brendan

told me that it happened to one of his friends before ... cant see it until u remove everything ... LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264203-not-boosting/#findComment-4518294
Share on other sites

alright everyone, thanks for the advice, i still haven't been able to check out his car but he's told me that it was the air flow and that it was fitted the wrong way!?

he said it's all good now, i thought it was a bit strange lol

thanks all!

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264203-not-boosting/#findComment-4521672
Share on other sites

alright everyone, thanks for the advice, i still haven't been able to check out his car but he's told me that it was the air flow and that it was fitted the wrong way!?

he said it's all good now, i thought it was a bit strange lol

thanks all!

Andrew

Hey mate could even be the actuator if thats stuffed it will let the exausst pressure striaght out

it would also explain the no power after 2500rpm probly running up shit to.

check it out

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264203-not-boosting/#findComment-4522670
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...