Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Power FC D-Jetro, R32GTR, in almost new condition, with 2x denso map sensors and hand controller $1400 firm

Blitz 700cc injectors. 10.5mm. Works well. Removed from engine 2 weeks ago. With 6x injectors clips $800

Trust fuel rail 10.5mm $300

BDI fuel rail, 10.5mm, dual feeds, with Nismo fuel regulator $400

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...1862_148600.jpg

Greddy radiator, for r32, with factory fan shroud, and an aftermarket temp sensor probe included. Almost new, used for a few 100kms $800

Cusco tension rod bar for r32 gtr. Brand new $140

HKS Kansai torque controller $200

Works well, lost the black face due to hard launches :thumbsup:

Check link for more details http://www.nengun.com/hks-kansai/active-et-s-controller

Enkei RPF1 17x9.5, 22 offset rims $1300

Extremely etremely light weight

Locate in the Gold Coast.

Can freight at buyer expense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264482-garage-clean-up/
Share on other sites

Lost contact with buyer. All parts are still available.

Found a few more items over the weekend.

1x pair of factory r32 caster rod with eccentric polyurethrane bushes. Allows caster adjustment $150

2x Mickey Thompson 255x50x16. Only had a few drag passes. $220 each or happy to trade for a pair of used Mickey Thompson 275/xx/17

I will try to post some pics of parts this evening if time permits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264482-garage-clean-up/#findComment-4532684
Share on other sites

Pics as promised

1x pair of factory r32 caster rod with eccentric polyurethrane bushes. Allows caster adjustment $150

IMG_0173.jpg

IMG_0174.jpg

IMG_0175.jpg

2x Mickey Thompson 255x50x16. Only had a few drag passes. $220 each or happy to trade for a pair of used Mickey Thompson 275/xx/17

Money welll spent to reduce your 1/4 mile time

IMG_0176.jpg

IMG_0177.jpg

IMG_0178.jpg

Power FC - Djetro for R32 GTR with base map $1400

IMG_0185.jpg

IMG_0186.jpg

BDI fuel Rail $200

Nismo Fuel Reg $120

Gizzmo Tacho recall Shift light $130

Cusco Tension Rod bar. Brand new $140

IMG_0188.jpg

Greddy Radiator, used for a couple of weeks, $800 ono

HKS Kansai Active ET-S controller, very easy to wire up to the g-sensor $200

IMG_0163.jpg

IMG_0165.jpg

IMG_0168.jpg

Enkei RPF1 rims, 17x9.5, 22 offset, 7.5kg each, fits r32gtr well, $1300

IMG_0171.jpg

IMG_0172.jpg

Greddy air diversion plates, $100

IMG_0190.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264482-garage-clean-up/#findComment-4541430
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Power FC D-Jetro, R32GTR, in almost new condition, with 2x denso map sensors and hand controller $1400 firm

Blitz 700cc injectors. 10.5mm. Works well. Removed from engine 2 weeks ago. With 6x injectors clips $800

Trust fuel rail 10.5mm $300

BDI fuel rail, 10.5mm, dual feeds, with Nismo fuel regulator $400

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...1862_148600.jpg

Greddy radiator, for r32, with factory fan shroud, and an aftermarket temp sensor probe included. Almost new, used for a few 100kms $800

Cusco tension rod bar for r32 gtr. Brand new $140

HKS Kansai torque controller $200

Works well, lost the black face due to hard launches :P

Check link for more details http://www.nengun.com/hks-kansai/active-et-s-controller

Enkei RPF1 17x9.5, 22 offset rims $1300

Extremely etremely light weight

Locate in the Gold Coast.

Can freight at buyer expense.

Does the Power FC D-Jetro, R32GTR come with the map harness and everything needed to install it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264482-garage-clean-up/#findComment-4587387
Share on other sites

Does the Power FC D-Jetro, R32GTR come with the map harness and everything needed to install it?

Yes it does. However I promised to give it to a a friend for his great help. Sorry.

Radiator and Cusco tension bar are sold. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264482-garage-clean-up/#findComment-4588120
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...