Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 - R34 GTR Front Conversion Parts

R34 GTR Front Bar & Lip, URAS gaurds & rhs Xenon light

AS seen HERE

Want $950 "BUY NOW" or a serious offer

R33 GTR Front Gaurds, Aluminium, R33 GTS-T Upgrade

AS Seen HERE

Want $650 "Buy Now" or a serious offer

RB25DET Top Mount Exhaust Manifold R32, R33 & R34

As seen HERE

ANY OFFER WELCOME

Greddy style intake manifold & 80mm throttle body

As Seen HERE

Offers over $250, from memory we paid $250 for the 80mm TB at the time

RB25 OS GIKEN Double plate clutch, still has a few mm

As Seen HERE

Offers being taken

RB25 OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch Heaps of Life RB26

As Seen HERE

Offers being taken

R32 RB26DETT Head, Complete - Skyline GTR RB30 rb26

Covers, Water & Oil Lines, Coolant Lines, Throttles etc

As seen HERE

Want $2000

RB25 R33 gts-t Power FC & Commander - near new

As Seen HERE

Want $1450

r33 r34 skyline RB25DET Trust Turbo Kit TD06 Greddy

TD06-20G 8cm Turbo, dump & manifold Excellent condtion!

As Seen HERE

Want $2500

RB25DET ACL forged pistons Suit skyline R32 R33 R34

As Seen HERE

Want $650 ONO

RB25DET Manual Gearbox skyline r32 r33 r34

AS Seen HERE

Offers over $1200 will get it

RB30DET Assemble Engine, RB25DET Head R33 R34 RB25 RB30

Ready to bolt in engine, with external oil drains etc

As Seen HERE

Want $1400 OPEN TO OFFERS

Sard 850CC Injectors,Skyline RB25DET Bargain

AS Seen HERE

Want $950 ONO

Everything has got to go, we don't care if it sells through SAU or E-bay it will be sold regardless..

First in best dressed.

Cheers

Also Delivery avaliable to the following areas cheap:

Wagga, Albury, Shepparton, Bendigo, Echuca, etc

Will freight anything anywhere at buyers expense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264655-rb26-rb25-performance-parts-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

R34 GTR conversion bits - - - - - > $850 BUY ME

Hows about that stainless manifold, are you going to let it sell on e-bay for $51...

If that's what it makes, then that is what it will be sold for....

Come on guys

What about the RB26 head for only around $1k

BID BID BID

I am a hard man on E-bay, they buyer of the front hasn't gotten back to me, if they don't by tuesday, i will seperate, Trini price as we discussed, plus the sea courier should be back to me with a price. And putraged $150 for the gaurds. But at this stage the lot sold for $750, so i am a little disapointed.

But hey who cares, get it out of here.. lol

Heaps more stuff up for grabs guys, PLEASE DO NOT LET THAT HEAD GO FOR NOTHING, GET YOUR K-RUDD Coin and BUY it, it is still at like $1k... And it has basically EVERYTHING......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...