Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 - R34 GTR Front Conversion Parts

R34 GTR Front Bar & Lip, URAS gaurds & rhs Xenon light

AS seen HERE

Want $950 "BUY NOW" or a serious offer

R33 GTR Front Gaurds, Aluminium, R33 GTS-T Upgrade

AS Seen HERE

Want $650 "Buy Now" or a serious offer

RB25DET Top Mount Exhaust Manifold R32, R33 & R34

As seen HERE

ANY OFFER WELCOME

Greddy style intake manifold & 80mm throttle body

As Seen HERE

Offers over $250, from memory we paid $250 for the 80mm TB at the time

RB25 OS GIKEN Double plate clutch, still has a few mm

As Seen HERE

Offers being taken

RB25 OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch Heaps of Life RB26

As Seen HERE

Offers being taken

R32 RB26DETT Head, Complete - Skyline GTR RB30 rb26

Covers, Water & Oil Lines, Coolant Lines, Throttles etc

As seen HERE

Want $2000

RB25 R33 gts-t Power FC & Commander - near new

As Seen HERE

Want $1450

r33 r34 skyline RB25DET Trust Turbo Kit TD06 Greddy

TD06-20G 8cm Turbo, dump & manifold Excellent condtion!

As Seen HERE

Want $2500

RB25DET ACL forged pistons Suit skyline R32 R33 R34

As Seen HERE

Want $650 ONO

RB25DET Manual Gearbox skyline r32 r33 r34

AS Seen HERE

Offers over $1200 will get it

RB30DET Assemble Engine, RB25DET Head R33 R34 RB25 RB30

Ready to bolt in engine, with external oil drains etc

As Seen HERE

Want $1400 OPEN TO OFFERS

Sard 850CC Injectors,Skyline RB25DET Bargain

AS Seen HERE

Want $950 ONO

Everything has got to go, we don't care if it sells through SAU or E-bay it will be sold regardless..

First in best dressed.

Cheers

Also Delivery avaliable to the following areas cheap:

Wagga, Albury, Shepparton, Bendigo, Echuca, etc

Will freight anything anywhere at buyers expense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264655-rb26-rb25-performance-parts-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

R34 GTR conversion bits - - - - - > $850 BUY ME

Hows about that stainless manifold, are you going to let it sell on e-bay for $51...

If that's what it makes, then that is what it will be sold for....

Come on guys

What about the RB26 head for only around $1k

BID BID BID

I am a hard man on E-bay, they buyer of the front hasn't gotten back to me, if they don't by tuesday, i will seperate, Trini price as we discussed, plus the sea courier should be back to me with a price. And putraged $150 for the gaurds. But at this stage the lot sold for $750, so i am a little disapointed.

But hey who cares, get it out of here.. lol

Heaps more stuff up for grabs guys, PLEASE DO NOT LET THAT HEAD GO FOR NOTHING, GET YOUR K-RUDD Coin and BUY it, it is still at like $1k... And it has basically EVERYTHING......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...