Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need this stuff gone. So make some offers.

Greddy plenum,

80mm hypertune throttlebody,

Custom twin feed fuel rail suit top feeds

HKS bov

$1800 for the lot

6boost manifold, $1100

Garrett T51r turbo with 4" dump pipe and filter $2800

turbosmart 60mm gate $900

Ported RB25 head with Tomei cams, cam gears, polished cam covers and splitfire coils (Needs clearances checked)

offers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264951-rb25-bolt-on-parts/
Share on other sites

what's the spec for 6boost mani?

and would u put the whole lot prices since it's the forum rules.

thanks.

The spec are.... To suit RB25 head and to fit a T51r turbo and 60mm wastegate....

And there is prices above.... the head has offers as it needs the clearances checked

ever tried to low mount a T51r? lol. also does it mean that the 25 head now has solid lifters when u say that the clearances need to be checked??

Yeah a T51r is a little on the big side to be a low mount. lol

No doesnt have solid lifters, the machine shop didnt set it up properly after it was ported so now has a tick noise from the top end.

some pics

plenum

2530.jpg

turbo

T51RTurbo.jpg

T51RTurbo1.jpg

Image035.jpg

Image034.jpg

12-12-08_1740.jpg

12-12-08_1715.jpg

12-12-08_1714.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Need this stuff gone. So make some offers.

Greddy plenum,

80mm hypertune throttlebody,

HKS bov

$1300 for the lot

6boost manifold, $1100

Garrett T51r turbo with 4" dump pipe and filter $2600

turbosmart 60mm gate $900

rail and coils gone sorry mate

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

not sure of size of front cover but rear is 1.05

wastegate is a turbosmart 60mm

Also have some R32 GTR twin turbos, manifolds and dump pipes and the twin turbo top pipe.

$400 + freight

  • 2 weeks later...
not sure of size of front cover but rear is 1.05

wastegate is a turbosmart 60mm

Also have some R32 GTR twin turbos, manifolds and dump pipes and the twin turbo top pipe.

$400 + freight

Hi mate

how much for the exhaust manifold posted to the UK mate?

this is perfect for me

mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...