Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right now i need a dump pipe to complete my exhaust system..

Are JJR dump pipe reliable... Anyone had any issues with theirs?? or should i save up for a jap one??

Are there much gain of gettin a full exhaust system??

Current exhaust system consist of

HKS hi Power Silent

de- cat

HPI front pipe

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

Right now i need a dump pipe to complete my exhaust system..

Are JJR dump pipe reliable... Anyone had any issues with theirs?? or should i save up for a jap one??

Are there much gain of gettin a full exhaust system??

Current exhaust system consist of

HKS hi Power Silent

de- cat

HPI front pipe

cheers

Ive had my jjr stainless bellmouth on 4 about a year now and no problems.Good upgrade over the stock item

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4528285
Share on other sites

Just a quick note with the JJR dumps, I purchased a full "hyperflow" i think its called and few years back. $899, dump & front (ALL IN ONE) and cat back. looks great, nice cannon design And the angle it sits is bloody awesome, fitment was really good overall was very very pleased with the bang for buck. note this system has no mufflers.

Only last year I chopped my dump (wanted a bend for my new dump i was fabricating) and i noticed where the split/divorce pipe that separates the waste flap gas away from turbine gas flow merges back in around 50cm down, where they had made the whole for it to flow back into down the dump, its 40mm pipe and the bloody hole was oval, jagged and around 32mm in diameter.

now i dont suppose this is the end of the world, considering it was on a small low mount setup. but i did have some creep issues. it would always go a few extra psi. i was at the track once and tried to set it to 12 psi but after the run the gauge recall said i had hit 16-17.

but the rest off the system is very good. sounds great fitted very well.

so just be aware if you buy a split dump

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4528306
Share on other sites

i have the bell mouth front/dump pipe on my 32gtst. i noticed a slight increase in torque. i had to cut the flange off and shorten the pipe by about 200mm then weld the flange back on, so just remember u may need to do the same thing. just a hot tip, spend 50bucks and heat wrap the pipe before you fit it. adam

Edited by adamskill
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4528602
Share on other sites

I bought a bellmouth dump and was quite impressed with the quality. I went away from the split dump after hearing too many stories of wastegate creep caused by the split flange fouling on the wastegate and preventing it from opening properly. JJR have probably fixed that by now but I couldn't see the need for a split dump on a street car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4530314
Share on other sites

when you guys are talkin about it fowling the waste gate

do you mean

THIS ONE:

jjrscreamrb.jpg

OR THIS ONE:

jjrrbdump.jpg

OR THIS ONE:

jjrsplitdumprb.jpg

Cause im after just a split dump pipe so i can get some better exhaust flowage. (or all) and for my power range i dont think i need a full 3" removing the wastegate gasses from the stock 2.5" piping should free up enough flow as im only finding loss in power just before redline, however still sustaining maximum torque ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539131
Share on other sites

oh this is where my question comes, I ordered from jjr a front pipe dump pipe 1 piece, this dosent have the spliter at the start of the dump pipe for the other outlet on the turbo, is this a problem? Why do some dumps have the splitter to separate the 2 outlets? what difference is it not having the splitter? will i have problems at just 12 pounds stock turbo setup?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539297
Share on other sites

I have this: (didn't use those gaskets though)

jjrrbdump.jpg

Bought it probably a year or so ago? Haven't had any problems with it so far... Though the wastegate return was a bit rough on the inside, if I had something handy I would have cleaned it up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539427
Share on other sites

I have a JJR split front+dump ( the 3rd pic ), which I bought second hand.

Only issue I had was that the wastegate pipe, due to sticking out further towards the engine than a traditional bell mouth would, clashed a bit with.... something, I can't remember - I think the water line from the turbo. But it was no biggie - you just have to push it a bit.

In terms of bolting up to the turbo and cat, I had no problems. Well, I snapped half the bolts onto the turbo cause they were seized and its an absolute bitch to bolt back up (especially without ratcheting spanners) but no problem with the product :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539787
Share on other sites

Isn't that the whole point of the bellmouth? The fact that it doesn't separate the gases like the split dump does?

On my GT-RS turbo the exhaust umm.. part that bolts to the dump pipe had a built in separator whereas the stock turbo didn't, so the separator attachment on my split dump had to be removed when the new turbo went on. Hope that made sense.. So I imagine you would need a separator attachment made up for your dump pipe if you actually want to make use of the split design.

Edited by bryno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539985
Share on other sites

was covered in great detail in a thread I read a while back.. something about turbulence and using a split dump to allow the gases to merge further down the pipe to create less turbulence/better flow.. think bellmouth allows you to go higher boost as the waste gate size isn't restricted like it is in the split design..

Some one who actually knows about this stuff would be better at answering that question though..

edit: found a bit of info on the split design.. gives you a bit of an idea, may not be entirely accurate though..

"Dual pipe technology is recognised by the major turbo company engineers to be the best way to make internally gated turbo's work in a most efficient way by breaking up (seperating) the different pressure ratio's between turbo and waste gas in order to eliminate turbulence. Eliminating all turbulance allows the turbo gas to rapidly accelerate away from the turbo. This action in turn reduces spool up time - produces more torque faster and will give a fatter torque curve all through the rev range."

Edited by bryno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4540036
Share on other sites

Ok but wat is used for what? Like if 1 big pipe is best why do they make split pipes? Or vice versa?

Do some searching, at higher levels of gas flow most splits have proven to be a restriction, and also a large number of wastegate flaps foul on the seperaters.... i would reccomend saving changing at some point, and getting a bellmouth, you could probably sell your HPI front pipe for the price of a JJR stainless bellmouth :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4540271
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...