Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This Wierd?

Benzino33

By Benzino33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
Posted

Okay, hi everyone

My s1 r33 gtst does this wierd thing, usually at cold start, it will rev high, like around 1500 rpm to 2k and wont come down. Either it just stays there for a while and comes down to normal when the engine heats up or it never comes down. What i noticed is that if i turn the car off and then on again, it goes back to normal idle (regardless of how cold the engine is). This has happened for a long time and has me confused.

Ive changed the throttle body, IAC complete unit, TPS, cleared all vacuum leaks and changed the crank position sensor.

Also what i notice is that when its in this "high rev" mode it kinda sounds like nothing is blowing through my exhaust when down shifting and leaving it in gear. but when i turn it off and back on again (while driving), its fine!

thats as best as I could explain it, found it a bit hard to explain to mechanics, but yeah, if any ones experienced this before, how did you deal with it? and would it pose a big problem?

Any info would be great, thanks

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/
Share on other sites
Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
<br />cold start.... till your thermostat closes... normal<br />
<br /><br /><br />

ok, I understand,, the only thing thats worrying me is my exhaust sounding like nothin comin through it.sometimes I have to turn it off and on a few times while driing for the car to sound normal. Sometimes happens as well when the engines warm. It would be normal, i'd turn it off, do something, come back and tun it on and it would do it agian. Maybe a blocked cat converter but i dunno

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4532974
Share on other sites
SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted

Well wat I have is not 100% like wat you are describing. The car revs high at about 1600-1800 rpm wen its cold and than it gradually drops down when the car is warm. Mechanic says that is due to big injectors and the way it's tuned on the Apexi Power FC. If you have big mods than I guess that what it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4534881
Share on other sites
Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
<br />Well wat I have is not 100% like wat you are describing. The car revs high at about 1600-1800 rpm wen its cold and than it gradually drops down when the car is warm. Mechanic says that is due to big injectors and the way it's tuned on the Apexi Power FC. If you have big mods than I guess that what it is.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

yeah mine does just that, ive never checked my injectors, i think my car used to have bogger mods but were taken off later. I need to get an ecu soon to sort this out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4536005
Share on other sites
SL33K Experienced

SL33K

Posted
Posted

I think its normal. Mine Does that all the time. and my Exhaust doesnt sound loud no matter how much i Rev it. When the Engine gets Warm it sounds Louder and Sweet and Idles at 700RPM and very smooth too.

I asked the Guyz at the workshop and they sed its normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4536096
Share on other sites
SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted
<br /><br /><br />

yeah mine does just that, ive never checked my injectors, i think my car used to have bogger mods but were taken off later. I need to get an ecu soon to sort this out

Well I hope you find the problem, If it is a problem, it could be just your injectors or something. Good Luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4537481
Share on other sites
Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well I hope you find the problem, If it is a problem, it could be just your injectors or something. Good Luck

Ok well I'll get my injectors looked at. Also just wanted to ask. You know how the injectors are in line? now, just in front of them is this thing that looks like a but nut or something. Its got a connection coming out of it and that connection connects to the tps as well. What is that thing? And i think theres something wrong with it coz it constantly makes a ticking noise. Might this have anything to do with my problem?

Thanks a lot for the input guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4537908
Share on other sites
SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted
Ok well I'll get my injectors looked at. Also just wanted to ask. You know how the injectors are in line? now, just in front of them is this thing that looks like a but nut or something. Its got a connection coming out of it and that connection connects to the tps as well. What is that thing? And i think theres something wrong with it coz it constantly makes a ticking noise. Might this have anything to do with my problem?

Thanks a lot for the input guys

I'm honestly not sure, cause I got an RB25 NEO and the Injectors, and the layout is different.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265372-is-this-wierd/#findComment-4542591
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...