Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seeing as the Guards Etc are interchangable with the MR30's and I dont know much about the MR30's....

whats the difference between the MR30 and Series 1 DR30 Headlights, grille, filler pannel and bonnet.... also will they fit up flush with the series 2 bumper.

from what I can tell the grille looks abit different.

and does anyone know of anywhere that sells the over fenders apart from www.r30.co.jp... yahoo auctions seem like too much trouble.

also about how much should I be paying for the MR30 parts from a wrecker... I normally dont know what I should be paying at wreckers and think i've been ripped off a couple of times. :down:

this is what I want my DR looking like... but keeping it White / Black still.... Will also be keeping my current front end incase I ever want to swap it back.

oono-dr30-1.jpg

oono-dr30-2.jpg

still unsure wether to get my 3 peice wheels a new deeper lip made up to fill the guards or some wider wheels like in the pic

Everything should just bolt up

MR30 and series 1 DR30 would be the same front panel wise

Why would you want to deironmask your car though?

Just the flares and wheels on your car would look great

Edited by R34

s1 mr's (same font as the dr in the pic) and s1 dr's have the same front (bar the lip). then theres s2 mr30 front which uses same guards as the ironmask front dr30 but thinner head lights then s1 (not ironmask) thinner grill and no chrome filler strip under the lights and grill. but use same bumper as ironmask dr (but with no light sprayers and bottom spoiler).

so to put s1 front on ironmask dr30 u would need s1 mr/dr headlights grill, 1/4 panels, bumper, 1/4 panel indicators, bonnet and possibly the bonnet latch support. might b able 2 get away with ur current 1/4 panels but unsure if s1 and s2 bumper mounts r in the same place. also u would have to leave ur indiactor where it is. s1 have it level with the bumper.

f*k hope that made sense lol

think i have head lights and a bumper around the place, not sure tho...

Edited by OUTATIME

hold up you wanna get rid of the iron mask???? :down:

the headlights are the same, "the filler panel" which is just a thin slither of metal is the same, I believe only the grille is different and some what hard to get. Just by looking at pics yes they will line up with the series 2 bumper no worries.

As for MR parts prices, I have only ever bought stuff from u-pull-it so it has cost me stuff all most of the time.

Well said guys.

My only addition would be the rear spoiler. Over $600.00 landed ex Japan and mine is the only 1 in Oz as best I know.

The Jap car is a bit of a bodge, coz it has a S1 front & S2 rear and I have NEVER seen the flares in Oz. My best thought is they are 240Z grafted on because our rear wheel arch is not round like these flares are, similar to a 240Z rear wheel arch.

Cheers, D

Oh! And the front lip is about $800.00 landed.

Waste of money for just a look in my opinion.

I have a sample of the Jenesis Latter Stage front bar & a few years back about 10 people put their hand up for a new one from a mould I produced, but when orders were called for with 50% deposit, there was not a murmur, the silence from this forum was deafening, so I smashed the mould.

Cheers, D

I have a sample of the Jenesis Latter Stage front bar & a few years back about 10 people put their hand up for a new one from a mould I produced, but when orders were called for with 50% deposit, there was not a murmur, the silence from this forum was deafening, so I smashed the mould.

Cheers, D

I was one who was keen on a copy, was only just thinking late last year whatever happened with this idea. Didnt ever see anything on here in regards to orders and a 50% deposit, as I would have definently run with it. Oh well

My only addition would be the rear spoiler. Over $600.00 landed ex Japan and mine is the only 1 in Oz as best I know.

You mean this spoiler Dennis?

This came on my car but the internal support was rusting so I cut it out and am in the process of trying to refit a new stainless steel support.

Didn't know they were rare in Oz

Love those flares the more I see them

post-98-1239834965_thumb.jpg

Edited by R34

I know normaly the series 1 face doesnt look as good, but personaly if the car has over fenders then i prefer the series 1 front,... the iron mask looks abit too pointy with those over fenders....

Might just order the over fenders and rear spoiler first from Jenesis, then decide wether to change after....

Will probally get them shipped to China if it makes shipping any cheaper to save costs and have my gf's sister bring them over when she comes to visit us around june / july.

S2 guards are the same as S1 except they have the extra hole for the high-mount side indicator. You'll notice that the low-mount hole is till there, but hidden under the bumper...

The S1/S2 lights are very different, but the body shells are the same. I bought nearly everything needed to fit an iron-mask to my old MR, but never got around to it.

The bonnet catch is ok, but the manual release is different.

Basically, I'd suggest you pick up an S2 aus-spec MR for sub $1000 and pull the bits of it. It will be a bit of a bastard though, as the S2 bumper update coincides with the ironmask for the DR, so there wasn't an S2-bumpered DR with big lights.

The car in the pic has probably just got an S2 rear bumper fitted - but a lot of the S1's had fender mirrors, so who knows...

Edited by BensDR30
Oh! And the front lip is about $800.00 landed.

Waste of money for just a look in my opinion.

I have a sample of the Jenesis Latter Stage front bar & a few years back about 10 people put their hand up for a new one from a mould I produced, but when orders were called for with 50% deposit, there was not a murmur, the silence from this forum was deafening, so I smashed the mould.

Cheers, D

Ahhh i beleive i was one of those people who was keen as for this bar as well, and last i heard/new of it was you were still talkin bout getting it moulded, never had any indications that you wanted deposit....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...