Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt-t Triptronic


Akis
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I was searching the forum but found nothing that clears what standalone can be used as plug and play to a R34 GT-t with triptronic, can you please help me.. I want to select the right standalone..

Thank you

Akis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the issue isnt plug and play or the loom

the issue is the gearbox logic is inside the main ecu

so when you remove the standard ecu and install an aftermarket one

you throw all of the autobox logic code in the bin - ie; the ecu is a manual one

so the gearbox doesnt get a rest from the engine on gear change

your best solution is to piggyback something onto the current ecu

that way you get most of what you want and you retain the auto logic control

other models such as toyota have the auto logic in another ECU

so you can actually get auto powerfc versions etc

the chaser has an auto powerfc version and the setup looks ace

your able to edit the entire auto setup and how the gearchanges work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no you cant use an auto powerfc from another car, its a completely different setup, dont even bother trying to think about this one

so forget that one

piggybacking is easy and most workshops can do this

safc is piggyback, emanage is piggyback, some workshops can even remap the R34 GTT ECU (good idea, but costly)

if it was me i would do consider the following in order of preference

1. safc afc or afc neo

2. remap of r34 GTT ecu

3. nistune or emanage

the safc / afc are cheap and bulletproof

remap will be around $1000 ish all up

nistune / emanage maybe $800 ish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your answer.. i already have an safc, but i do not know how much can i get out of it since i have no control of timing.. If i want to go at 600-700 hp i don't think i would be able to do it with safc, e-manage ultimate seems a more adequate solution..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

600hp/400rwkw will cost you $20k

and at that point the auto box might not agree so you will have other concerns

is there a reason you want so much power? 400rwkw is stupid on the street

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your answer.. i already have an safc, but i do not know how much can i get out of it since i have no control of timing.. If i want to go at 600-700 hp i don't think i would be able to do it with safc, e-manage ultimate seems a more adequate solution..

man if your goin for that sort of power, get the gearbox rebuilt, get a shift kit and then you can use a stand alone ECU :P

not to mention the numerous other amounts of problems your going to have with this engine going for that kinda power. Your gana need a plenum and TB, your gana need to remove the TCS, then your up for a stand alone ECU again. If you chasing that kinda power, get the gearbox rebuilt with a shift kit, power fc or haltech or wahtever tickles your fancy a decent stall kit and you will be set to go.

Edited by Sammy34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so i have 2 ways, 1 go manual and use a standalone, 2 install a shift kit and use standalone, i want to know the costs of those 2.. though the 2 requires a rebuilt in the transmition.. Ok i will search for these..

Thank you all!!

You are very quick and full of informations! :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously if you are hoping for 6-700hp then the cost of the transmission will pale in comparison to the rest of the build, allow $5000 for retaining the auto with an ecu, or $6000 and up for a manual conversion with an ecu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

your current setup when the gearbox needs to change gears the ECU backs off the ignition timing so the gearbox can change freely

your issue, is - when you change the ECU - it (the new ECU) does not back off the igition timing as its a manual ECU (all aftermarket options for R34 GTT are manual)

so on gearchange the box doesnt get a rest from the engine so it would likely flare up and put stress on the gearbox

installing a shift kit does not fix the problem, in makes it worse

the shift kits makes the changes quicker and stronger, this amplifies the impact to the gearbox as it still doesnt get a rest from the engine on gearchange

so your options are

change to a manual gearbox

change to a mechanical autobox (ie one that doesnt need electronic change patterns) - from memory the vl turbo jatco box works like that, doesnt need auto-electronic ECU signals

judging by the above, its probably cheaper and easier to sell your car and buy a manual GTT then modify from there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do what I did...go manual...saves you alot of hassles.

Seems to be the best way... Do you have any guide of what parts will i need and what further modifications?

Thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well because i'm in the process of a VQ30DETT engine conversion I had to get some custom parts like bellhousing adaptor plate and such.

I used a R33 GTST gearbox, and an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

You'll need a fair amount of parts; pedal, plastics, new dash, rar rar rar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well because i'm in the process of a VQ30DETT engine conversion I had to get some custom parts like bellhousing adaptor plate and such.

I used a R33 GTST gearbox, and an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

You'll need a fair amount of parts; pedal, plastics, new dash, rar rar rar.

By dash do you mean the whole dash or just the center console?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my dash I meant you can replace the speedo etc if you want, because the auto one says P, D, N, 1, 2, 3. I purchased a Nismo 320 KM/h Dash for $700.

Only centre console bit i replaced was the gear stick surround.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my dash I meant you can replace the speedo etc if you want, because the auto one says P, D, N, 1, 2, 3. I purchased a Nismo 320 KM/h Dash for $700.

Only centre console bit i replaced was the gear stick surround.

Oh i see, and i like this nismo speedo! So except the inside of the car what else will i need? Transmision box, axle, and???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
×
×
  • Create New...