Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

engine light flashes when the injecters are close to max, AFM is maxed or its detecting alot of knocking.

your probably maxing everything if they are stock injectors and AFM, and the knocking noise would be detonation.

not good, Re-tune!

14psi on a stock turbo? Hope not... likely to kill it.

If you have a PFC, my bet is its knocking. You cant max AFM/Injectors on a stock turbo (assuming you are using stock)

In which case every time you do it, your destroying your motor.

Take it to your tuner, and get it looked at.

You cant max AFM/Injectors on a stock turbo (assuming you are using stock)

I maxed my stock AFM with stock turbo, about 18 months ago when I had the stock turbo I had it tuned and it maxed at around 6,000rpm, 12.8 psi 188 RWKW.

maybe because i live in tassie and it was probably not much above 10 degrees lol

either way, the light flashes for those 3 things, injectors, air flow metre or dectecting detonation.

none are good, i'd get it tuned again

also, you say fuel reg? i'd probably shit can that and fit a stock or nismo FPR.

you might want to look at a new fuel pump too, maybe thats getting lazy. plus if it hasnt been replaced its been buzzing away for over 10 years, time for a newbie

Get a hand controller for ya PFC if u dont already have one. Then have a look at your knock levels (OVER 60 and your engine will hate u) then have a look at your injector duty cycle (should never go past 90% for safety) mine was at 86% on 1 bar stock turbo and mad 285 RWHP. Ask your tuner to give u a quick heads up on stuff to look at. Hope that helps.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A 'SAFE PING' LOL

Just to confirm things, the recommanded max boost for a factory RB25DET turbo with the ceramic turbine wheel is about 12 psi. For everyday driving, I'd be running it on 10 psi as your 'Hi boost'. Anything over 12psi and you run the risk of breaking your turbine off and embedding it in your cat convertor. Not a pretty sight at all.

In regards to the engine light.... With the POWER FC, it uses the warning light on your dash to indicate a number of things.... maxin out your injectors, engine knock etc.... if you had a FC Commander controller, you could in fact program it to show a number of these 'warnings' in real time.

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#70

<---- GO HERE, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE BLOODY THING.... It'll explain to you a lot what that stupid Japanese booklet that the PowerFC came with doesnt explain...it probably does, not that any of us could understand it lol unless you're a Jap of course.

Edited by smok74

Thanks guys, my tuner is CRD in silverwater syd.. im new to this turbo life as i only just got my full lincense to drive it.. my LO setting on my ebc is 12psi and HI is 14, on the LO setting it does not have this problem as far as im aware of. As it costs some decent coin to tune is it ok to drive on LO (12psi) until i have enough to get a re-tune..? I have also noticed today that on 14psi my boost gauge went all the way to about 18-20psi... i backed off emidiatly.. ??????? (Any reputable tuners in syd would be great..) Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...