Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

gettin ready to purchase a carbon bonnet just wondering whats the deal with the bonnet pins are they easy to install or should this be done by a workshop. and the actuall bonnet im guessing is easy to put on? guessing theres no modifications needed just where stock one was attached? correct me if im wrong thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/
Share on other sites

hey guys

gettin ready to purchase a carbon bonnet just wondering whats the deal with the bonnet pins are they easy to install or should this be done by a workshop. and the actuall bonnet im guessing is easy to put on? guessing theres no modifications needed just where stock one was attached? correct me if im wrong thanks

Get flush bonnet pins - read my other thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/#findComment-4556575
Share on other sites

why do you even need bonnet pins???

I dont and never had used em on my current or prior carbon bonnets. Is it for wank factor or are you expecting latch problems???

Mate, very good question...I recently purchased a CF bonnet as well...as to be honest, prefer for it to have no bonnet pins whatsoever...however, I am just scared that if I do 100km+ on the freeway that it'd fly off and reverse hit my windscreen or something? Is this possible and has it ever happened to anyone else as I'd prefer to keep it flush and have no bonnet pins whatsoever as I find they look ugly (even those flush ones)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/#findComment-4560890
Share on other sites

When i used to work for North Coast Kustoms we had a guy drive down from Cairns and he rocked up with a smashed window and cracked bonnet. When we asked what happened he said the fibreglass bonnet lifted up and smashed the window. He had no secondary restraints.

That's my personal experience, however there could have been more factors involved like the original bonnet latch could have been faulty, who knows.

I'd probably put some sort of secondary restraint on it, wouldn't want to risk it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/#findComment-4562057
Share on other sites

Mate, very good question...I recently purchased a CF bonnet as well...as to be honest, prefer for it to have no bonnet pins whatsoever...however, I am just scared that if I do 100km+ on the freeway that it'd fly off and reverse hit my windscreen or something? Is this possible and has it ever happened to anyone else as I'd prefer to keep it flush and have no bonnet pins whatsoever as I find they look ugly (even those flush ones)?

i personally have had mine sitting consitently on 160-180km/hr for an extended length of an unnamed road on multiple occasions that may or may not be a registered road / track and it held fine. My prior bonnet on my BA ford ute also had no problem with similar treatment. It was 5-6 years old and never missed a beat. IMO with experience to back it up it's all bullsh_t.

If you bought a quality bonnet, with underbracing thats adr compliant you have nothing to worry about. In my case the bonnet hook is resined into the bonnet heavily however has little extra support in form of brackets so i'll keep an eye on it. If i get a hit that cracks the area the bonnet will be a throw away. Thats where i could see something like the last guys comments happening. A skin only, or prior damaged/cracked bonnet sure it could let go. BUT so could any other damaged part.

Edited by STYLN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/#findComment-4562868
Share on other sites

ive had mine on my car for over a year now, and never ever had a problem with it on the freeway or anything

i guess it is added security to have the bonnet pins, but im hardly on the motorway (usualy just to wollongong for a cruise and back) the rest is city, stop start driving

if i was to do alot of highway driving....i might consider it, more of a safety thing then anything else

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/#findComment-4563866
Share on other sites

hi i am interested in a carbon fiber bonnet but i only want to keep things street legal and i am wondering are they street legal i am on the gold coast from queensland and i called up the DMV and they were no help at all, so i'm now trying here i like this bonnet here

http://carmate.com/product_details.php?pro...SGTS97AB2BONCAR

and if its not legal is there a brand that is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267151-carbon-bonnet/#findComment-4565081
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...