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LIST UPDATED & PRICE DROP

RB26 coil pack badge $30

B&M Oil cooler cores x2 (New) $125 each/ $200 for the pair

RB26 plenum (Slightly squashed) $100

R33 GTSt air con condenser $50

R33 GTSt coilpacks $50

R33 GTSt O2 sensor $50

R33 GTSt water & air temp sensor $20 each

Tomei RB26 exhaust manifold gaskets (New) $50

Blitz silicone hose for boost controller $20

N1 Oil pump gears (New) $300

R33 GTSt climate control unit $50

R33 GTSt Nismo clutch pedal bracket $200

Cooloing Pro 3' Silicone hoses (New) $100

R33 Cooling Pro 40mm radiator (New) $260

R33 GTSt air con compressor $50

R33 GTSt air con compressor accessories $30

R33 GTSt BOV and piping $50

Nismo fuel pressure regulator (New) $180

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    • It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • -5’s did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 🤨🤪
    • Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
    • Not without making up a new screamer pipe from scatch I don't think based upon the angles of the current return. Backpressure shouldn't be an issue though as the straight gate isn't affected by backpressure in the same way that a poppet valve is, and on top of that the exhast system is 4" all the way through so there should be minimal pressure if any to begin with.
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