Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would appreciate it if one of you photoshop gurus could shop some R34 GTR wheels on this R33 pic.

It's not my actual car, but it's exactly the same model/colour as mine, just without the stocko wheels. I don't have a good side-on shot of mine at the moment.

Feel free to stick on any other wheels you thing would look good as well if you feel like it, I'm kinda struggling with the amount of wheel choices that are around these days.

Would also be interested to see how something in black or white would look if someone has the time.

Thanks muchly.

JD

post-13979-1241087428_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267829-r33-gtr-photoshop-request/
Share on other sites

had a quick go at it.

Not perfect but you get an idea.

post-46584-1241155858_thumb.jpg

Nismo LMGT4 wheels.

Looks the best IMO, well certainly a lot better then BBS wheels (Damn I hate BBS wheels!) :banana:

As for the R34 GTR wheels on a R33 GTR = Looks weird.

Thanks for that, they don't look half bad...

Not a big fan of the BBS either, but I didn't have many side-on shots to choose from, and they just happened to be on that car.

Didn't realise the 34's would look weird on a 33 - is it just that they "don't look as though they belong"? See lots of 33's on 32's, so figured it might look ok.

Thanks again for doing the Nismos. :P

LOL!

Actually... Here is a pic of my friend Tim, SAU Member Tim GTR, R33 GTR Veilside Combat R with R34 GTR wheels.

Weird was probably the wrong word to use...

Lets just say I would picked another style of wheels before the R34 GTR ones anyway...

post-46584-1241173169_thumb.jpg

IMO since the R33 is a lot rounder in shape then the R34, you need thick spoke wheels like Nismo's / Volk TE 37's / Veilside Evolution V or Work Meister's to top it off... It gives the car a very aggressive stance!

Yep, I can see what you mean - the thicker spokes do look better on the fat girls :blink:

Do you know if the LMGT4's come in anything not quite so.....chrome?

I've seen the TE37's before, but not those particular Veilsides or Works you mentioned, off to have a look now.

LOL! :blink:

Hell no! No Chrome! Yuck! The wheels I photoshopped on your Blue R33 GTR are silver... They just look very shiny.

:)

Nismo LMGT4's come in Silver, Gun Metal Grey, White, Black and Bronze.

post-46584-1241181791_thumb.jpg

Silver

post-46584-1241182216_thumb.jpg

What looks to Gun Metal Grey...

post-46584-1241181032_thumb.jpg

White

post-46584-1241181846_thumb.jpg

Black

post-46584-1241181605_thumb.jpg

Bronze

post-46584-1241182271_thumb.jpg

Veilside Andrew Racing Evolution V

post-46584-1241182432_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1241182440_thumb.jpg

Fat ass deep lip.

I think better on old school cars.

post-46584-1241182554_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1241182812_thumb.jpg

TE 37's / Top Secret Gold TE 37's / Polished Lip TE 37's / Time Attack TE 37's (Black wheel with Red colour lip).

Rota GTR (P45) 18x9.5 in bromzr or gunmetal or white

Failing that ROTA grid 18x9.5 or 18x10 in the same colours

Rota are also bringingout the GTR in 19x10 et20 !!!!!!!!

For those who dont know the GTR is a exact copy of the nismo LM4 wheel

J

JD R33,

Since you got a blue R33 GTR, if you go with White LMGT4 wheels, it will give you the "National Skyline" Colour / Theme.

Blue Skies (Blue Car), White Clouds (White Wheels)... In the sky... Skyline... For some reason I remember reading that somewhere...

The Traditional Japanese Racing Colour is White.

Hence why all the R32/R33/R34 GTR N1's (N1 = Race Engines) only came out in Cristal White.

  • 4 weeks later...

id prefer the lmgt4's and the volk te37's, they are the best rim by far.. as they look awesome on gtr's and are super light wieght.

only bad thing is that they are very expensive :(

other wise id have some on mine lol..

  • 2 weeks later...

As SKYLINE said, the R33s have a rounder appearance compared with the R32 / R34, and with the flared arches of the GT-R, I think something with a bit of dish is nice and aggressive. The R34 rims on KR4-GTR look awesome too (particularly in that colour), but I like a little bit of dish...

Here is a pic of mine with some Volk RE30s I bought from another member here- let me know if you want to hit him up for a deal on some JDM wheels.

0812_GT-R_29.jpg

0812_GT-R_07.jpg

Thanks for the pics Matt, the Volks look great on your GTR.

I had pretty much decided on a set of the 18x9.5 LMGT4's in white, only to find out that Rays are out of stock and apparently not planning to make any more :P

I can only get them in bronze or silver, and the stocks of silver are almost all gone. The guys at Performalink can get me a set of the silver wheels spray painted white by the factory for an extra $400, not sure if the end result would be as durable as the original white versions from the factory though.

I could always go with copies like the Rota's, but would have really liked the JDM's.

God I hate choosing wheels..........

I just got some 2nd hand LMGT4. If you have the money, go for TE37 with 10.5 wide, they look even better than the LMGT4. But having said that, they're both priced about the same brand new so if I'm looking for brand new wheels, it'll be TE37 18x10.5 +22. Here a photo which made me want a white on white car (TE37 featured).

post-42920-1244688089_thumb.jpg

This is how the my car looks like now with LMGT4(will update the garage with more photos maybe tomorrow or tonight if you wanna have a look). Cheers!

post-42920-1244687466_thumb.jpg

Edited by Brandon

Nope. Go to the official Ray's Engineering website for the complete list of offset and width. They've got the full list of compatible cars for all the offset (you cant go wrong that way). Basically the TE37 and LMGTs have their spokes more concave which clears the Brembos. If I remember correctly, all the offsets and width of these 2 rims will fit the GTR and the wider it is, the deeper the dish (widest you can go for LMGT is 9.5 and 10.5 for TE37, hence I recommend TE37).

I thought the LM or 400R came with LMGT2 as stock?

Edited by Brandon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...