Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i used to own a towing business you will want too make sure you have the right insurence once to put a car on the trailer ..ie when i backed my truck up to a car and put the cable to whinch it up i was covered by what was called hook insurence .

so if the cable broke the car owner was covered . once all 4 wheels are the tray of the truck it was called load insurence both come under a seprate policey and 2 lot's of premuim's .

you may want to check this out b4 offering the service . also seening how your effictly towing a customers car you may need a toweys lincence .

this is the main reason workshops find it cheaper just to ring a tow truck . i would not want a car of mine on your trailer not knowing what is covered and by who if you prang or the car falls off on the way to the workshop .

not trying to put you guys off its hard to make a buck in these days and times and good luck with the workshop just making you aware of what you might be up for .

cheers dean

it costs me $110 to hire for 24 hours from any servo ive been to plus a $50 deposit which i get back.

id have a flat rate, then charge after a few km's if its say more then 30-50km that needs to be driven (1 way)

that way it should cover the trailer and the whatever the tow car's general wear and tear while towing.

i'd also be buying insurence that'll cover the workshop while towing incase something happens to either car.

who wants to play hang man

Kietz, I editted your 1st post for good reason.....keep slagging businesses and you are out of here permanently!!

You've been going good for awhile now (I even reduced your warning level) don't blow it now mate.

it costs me $110 to hire for 24 hours from any servo ive been to plus a $50 deposit which i get back.

Which part of town you from?

If South, Caltex on Cross Rd. (261 Cross Road CUMBERLAND PARK SA 5041) charged me $85 last time i hired one for 24hrs which was a couple months ago now...

from port noarlunga mate.

ive used at least 3 or 4 different places , shell, mobil cant remember the others but each time its been $107 for 24hours plus a $50 deposit.

ive also used a shell up north near modbury and it was the same price.

maybe caltex is the way to go next time i take the track car out to lala.

also keitz, grow up mate.

Which part of town you from?

If South, Caltex on Cross Rd. (261 Cross Road CUMBERLAND PARK SA 5041) charged me $85 last time i hired one for 24hrs which was a couple months ago now...

from port noarlunga mate.

ive used at least 3 or 4 different places , shell, mobil cant remember the others but each time its been $107 for 24hours plus a $50 deposit.

ive also used a shell up north near modbury and it was the same price.

maybe caltex is the way to go next time i take the track car out to lala.

also keitz, grow up mate.

My work (Rob's Fuels) do a car trailer for $60 + $50 deposit for 24 hours.. Didn't realise how cheap we actually were on that.

all insurance issues are being dealt with. as for general insurance on workshop and workmanship/public liability thats all done and up to scratch. Other than that hoist got up and running today and also got all the tools and welder in today, so we are pretty much ready to to buisiness as of tomorrow!

hope o hear from you soon

Good luck with the new shop Ben and Simon!

Im sure it will all go well especially with the high level of quality you have always put into my car in the past Simon

When i get my license back my car will definitely be down there for some things that need doing

:D Ceff man

EDIT: Was going to say don't be afraid to go down to the workshop/give them a call and have a chat about any ideas you might have :P

Edited by Ceffy_SA

Hey guys not sure if i put in address anywhere but on unit 3/26 stanbel rd salisbury plain. there is a workshop out the front called glenrothes mechanical. there is a driveway that runs down the side of that and we are second shed on the right

now open for business!

ok Ben and Simon. Thanks for ignoring my post above regarding becoming an SAU site sponsor, but if you haven't responded to me within 24 hours this post is gone and you get an official warning.

It is not fair for you to plug your business on here for free, when other businesses do the right thing and pay sponsorship fees.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...