Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Well I got an R33 GTST and im having this problem. The car turns off while im driving. It has happened twice now ahwile apart it happens from stop start going through gears then all of a sudden it turns off. Anyone know what could be wrong with it ? It seems to be idle'ing a little low would that have something to do with it ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/
Share on other sites

check the basics and go see a mechanic

reset the stock ecu, check belts, plugs, fittings in the engine bay

check for any loose plugs or connectors

check the afm plug

check throttle body etc for anything loose

check battery voltage at idle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4575767
Share on other sites

try and replicate the problem while watching ETCl, SENSOR SW CHECK

on the hand controller

do any of the sensor names go black background or do you notice any wierd values

ie; a shagged throttle body or tps would show TPS with a black background when it goes out of range

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4575899
Share on other sites

Sorry to get in on the other guys thread,

i reset the power fc back to stock r33 base map, fuel pump is new and was fine the past month

im still running the 044 fuel pump but with stock injectors and afm,

will try checking the sensors wen it happens,

it happened just before at 10kmph the car behind me almost smashed into me as its like i hit the brakes then it throttle cam back on 2 secs later and was all back to normal

Edited by FOOLBOOST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4575927
Share on other sites

Had a mate that had this exact problem with his STi, car would just randomly turn off, turns out his ignition barrel was shagged or something and it was rattling loose when driving and turning the car off, new ignition barrel later and a new set of keys and it wa fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4576381
Share on other sites

Thanks guys was my AFM the wiring even though soldered must have been touching as the afm keep dropping out

all fixed now :)

Mine did the same thing, in the end was dropping out every couple of k's whilst driving, turned out to be the afm as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4583596
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
×
×
  • Create New...