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Risking Grand Master

Risking

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Posted

I rebuild them myself so I have no idea who else can do them or what they charge.

We buy in the parts be it genuine or after market depending what they are.

There is really not much inside them, the most expensive parts are the clutch plates themselves. Ive never actually bought genuine ones though.

Id recommend replacing the multi chain if you have a decent ammount of grunt heading down it. I haven't had one break but have seen them stretch.

A grand to rebuild one would sound pretty reasonable to me. If it includes the chain its even better.

Second hand has worked for me in the past but they are really a kinder suprise and may not last very long anyways.

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

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Posted

I've been quoted $1200 second hand fitted and that's as close to joy as I have been. The car still runs 4WD quite well in 99% of situations and the suspension is being fixed from its questionable set up (totally missing some vital arms in the rear that aid traction + some other thing) so I'll see how that goes. A $1k rebuild (if you could find them for that) I think just about any one with a R32 GTR should consider as the cars are getting on in age and kms.

Vanilla_Rice Enthusiast

Vanilla_Rice

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing all these checks would be the same for a GTS4 aswell? I put the fuse in and checked my 4WD on some wet grass and only the rears were spinning. The reservoir in the boot is sitting on max. I suppose next point of action would be to bleed the atezza and then stick it on a 4WD dyno?

Vanilla_Rice Enthusiast

Vanilla_Rice

Posted
Posted (edited)

just jacked up the rear and dropped the clutch, nothing happened, rears spun but no action from the front what-so-ever. I did notice that the Attessa reservoir in the boot was initially at the max line, and after I did this test the level was about 2cm below the low mark. I doubt filling upto max will make it work, but havent tried that yet.

Also, in the past I've used the wrong type of fuse in the 4wd system and it didnt work at all. But I'm pritty sure this fuse is right because after I connected it and turned ignition on I heard what I could only imagine is the attessa primer (definately not the fuel pump, this one sounds different)

Sigh, Is this most likely the transfer case? or should I go fill up my attessa reservoir and bleed it to see if it makes any difference?

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

wont hurt to bleed the system but usually if there is minor air in the system it will still work to a degree.

Does the light turn on and off when the engine fires??

Is the control unit in the boot flashing any fault codes??

The only other thing id check before ripping the transfer case out when you have NO front drive is the front diff. Mine likes to chew up crown wheel and pinion gears.

Vanilla_Rice Enthusiast

Vanilla_Rice

Posted
Posted (edited)
Does the light turn on and off when the engine fires??

Is the control unit in the boot flashing any fault codes??

The only other thing id check before ripping the transfer case out when you have NO front drive is the front diff. Mine likes to chew up crown wheel and pinion gears.

Havent looked for the 4wd light to turn on and off yet, will do next time.. It doesnt stay on thats for sure.

havent checked the atessa ecu yet, but will very soon, I'm assuming if all is well it doesnt flash any codes at all??

I started another thread regarding a clunking noise at the front when I corner hard but I believe thats to do with excessively low ride height, also I almost always run it in 2wd, but from countless threads I've read this "shouldnt" have an adverse effect.

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
There is really not much inside them, the most expensive parts are the clutch plates themselves. Ive never actually bought genuine ones though.

Id recommend replacing the multi chain if you have a decent ammount of grunt heading down it. I haven't had one break but have seen them stretch.

A grand to rebuild one would sound pretty reasonable to me. If it includes the chain its even better.

Second hand has worked for me in the past but they are really a kinder suprise and may not last very long anyways.

Yes, I've seen the inside, not that complex really :(

The $1K rebuild should include the clutchpack's I believe, and you pay more $$$ if you want a stronger transfer case (better clutchpacks), RacePace do them in Victoria.

Award (gearbox and clutch?) do them in NSW or QLD, I cannot recall where they are located.

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