Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently bought an 1999 R34 GT-T, the car came with a 3" exhaust turbo back, front mount, high flow fuel pump, the standard turbo which has been high flowed, boost controller and bov.

I would eventually like to get the car to about 400rwhp and would like some suggestions on the best mods to go for next.

Any help is much appritiated.

Cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269344-what-next-for-my-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

ditch BOV

get a computer of some sort

bigger injectors + E85

/thread

EDIT: you're QLD, don't think you have E85 up there. You're going to have to go bigger turbo mate. Ask Stao @ Hypergear (check traders section) to build you something that can handle 300rwkw.

ditch BOV

get a computer of some sort

bigger injectors + E85

/thread

EDIT: you're QLD, don't think you have E85 up there. You're going to have to go bigger turbo mate. Ask Stao @ Hypergear (check traders section) to build you something that can handle 300rwkw.

Why ditch Bov?

So we can high flow your turbo sooner. lol

No. don't do that when turbo's working. Depends on its condition, stock BOV can leak at high boost, How ever you still need a BOV for the turbo to operate safely, most people replace it with a better one.

I recently bought an 1999 R34 GT-T, the car came with a 3" exhaust turbo back, front mount, high flow fuel pump, the standard turbo which has been high flowed, boost controller and bov.

I would eventually like to get the car to about 400rwhp and would like some suggestions on the best mods to go for next.

Any help is much appritiated.

Cheers :P

Have you tried searching?

If you simply put "300rwkw" into the search, you will find more threads than you can read in a month on the subject :bunny:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...