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On/off Running Issues R33 Gtr

JT33GTR

By JT33GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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JT33GTR Rookie

JT33GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I've had to start a new profile because i forgot my password & the email i used for my registration has now been closed...

Note: i have searched but nothing specific enough was found.

I recently (November 08) imported a 98' R33 GTR from Japan myself. Car is in perfect condition & usually runs perfect...usually. I'm not new to imports, ive had a TT supra, SR 180sx, 2x R33 Gts-t's etc over the last 6 years so i know the usual things to check.

So, like i said, the car runs great most of the time, but sometimes it just runs bad all of the sudden. It's like the car wont rev but the turbo's still spool & make boost (currently set to 14psi via EBC) the exhaust note also gets louder, sort of sounds like its is blocked off. When this happens i pretty much have NO power and the fuel smell in the cabin gets worse & car also back fires alot. the car does NOT misfire, this is not a coil/fuel pump/spark plug etc issue, all of that has been checked.

I then thought this could be an air flow meter problem until i checked them and noticed they were like new, i even opened them up to check the solder on the connectors and they were perfect.

Me and my mechanic have been over the car several times for vaccum leaks but there isn't any.

I know the car is running very very rich because it is getting between 250-300km from a tank so it does need to be dyno'd but i was just seeing if anyone on here has had any similar issues??

I just find it very strange because it is so variable.. it doesnt matter if its hot or cold or a long drive or short, it can just happen at any time but when it is running good its like a brand new car??

The car has had some significant mods in japan, most of which were removed including the full cage, turbo's but the cams remain (not sure what else has been changed internally) and the aftermarket ecu was removed and replaced with a stock item so i'm not sure if this is contributing to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

James

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Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Since it's had significant mods done to it, I'm guessing it has aftermarket bigger injectors.. genuine GTR injectors (from the R32 GTR at least) are black and yellow. I would check if you have indeed have aftermarket injectors, look into getting an aftermarket computer like say the PFC or the cheaper Nistune option (you will need to research it, as I believe you need a R32 GTR ecu to run the Nistune setup as I haven't heard of anyone using running Nistune on a 33 GTR ecu) where you can set the correct injector size.

JT33GTR Rookie

JT33GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Since it's had significant mods done to it, I'm guessing it has aftermarket bigger injectors.. genuine GTR injectors (from the R32 GTR at least) are black and yellow. I would check if you have indeed have aftermarket injectors, look into getting an aftermarket computer like say the PFC or the cheaper Nistune option (you will need to research it, as I believe you need a R32 GTR ecu to run the Nistune setup as I haven't heard of anyone using running Nistune on a 33 GTR ecu) where you can set the correct injector size.

Hi, i thought bout this but the compliance workshop reckons the injectors are standard but i think it might be worth checking, cheers.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

coolant temp sensor will keep the car running in the cold map = rich and will also from revving out too much

(on my 32 gtst it limits revs to about 4-5k prm when not fully warm)

i am also experiencing similar problems with it but been too slack to change the sensor (dam uni work :D )

so i would give that a go, the tend not to like working after ~15 years of abuse lol

  • 5 months later...
cmoney Proficient

cmoney

Posted
Posted

Im not sure if you've managed to solve this problem yet, but it sounds like your igniter/coil packs could be on the way out.

My R32 GTS-T did a similar thing, i would be driving along, accelerate & the noise would increase, boost would build, but power just wasnt there, & you could feel the power dropping off as if there is no fuel there or something. Changed my igniter, & the coil packs for a set of split fires, & suddenly no more dramas. My car actually feels to get more top end grunt over 5000rpm, where as before it was dropping off from 5000rpm upwards.

Mine was only doing it on long drives where it was up at operating temp for half hour plus, but your igniter could be the problem here....hope this helps.

  • 10 months later...
Kasmick Contributor

Kasmick

Posted
Posted

Hey Mate,

Did you ever get this problem sorted.... I have an issue with my GTR which sounds exactly the same as what you were having and i was hoping that maybe what fixed yours will fix mine.......

Any help would be great

Thanks

Michael

Hi everyone,

I've had to start a new profile because i forgot my password & the email i used for my registration has now been closed...

Note: i have searched but nothing specific enough was found.

I recently (November 08) imported a 98' R33 GTR from Japan myself. Car is in perfect condition & usually runs perfect...usually. I'm not new to imports, ive had a TT supra, SR 180sx, 2x R33 Gts-t's etc over the last 6 years so i know the usual things to check.

So, like i said, the car runs great most of the time, but sometimes it just runs bad all of the sudden. It's like the car wont rev but the turbo's still spool & make boost (currently set to 14psi via EBC) the exhaust note also gets louder, sort of sounds like its is blocked off. When this happens i pretty much have NO power and the fuel smell in the cabin gets worse & car also back fires alot. the car does NOT misfire, this is not a coil/fuel pump/spark plug etc issue, all of that has been checked.

I then thought this could be an air flow meter problem until i checked them and noticed they were like new, i even opened them up to check the solder on the connectors and they were perfect.

Me and my mechanic have been over the car several times for vaccum leaks but there isn't any.

I know the car is running very very rich because it is getting between 250-300km from a tank so it does need to be dyno'd but i was just seeing if anyone on here has had any similar issues??

I just find it very strange because it is so variable.. it doesnt matter if its hot or cold or a long drive or short, it can just happen at any time but when it is running good its like a brand new car??

The car has had some significant mods in japan, most of which were removed including the full cage, turbo's but the cams remain (not sure what else has been changed internally) and the aftermarket ecu was removed and replaced with a stock item so i'm not sure if this is contributing to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

James

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