Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The reason I asked if they were factories is because factory speakers are usually paper cones. Paper is very light so the cone can move in and out VERY easily. The result is great bass from a poor quality woofer. The downside is they have poor control at higher frequencies which results in the lack of clarity. I don't think that you will see a dramatic improvement in bass if any. The drumkicks should, however, be clearer and hit harder. The midrange should also be less muffled. With my old factories I was never playing anything lower than 50Hz, but it sounded pretty bassy since I was boosting it at 80hz. For RNB you could notice it, but for rock is was hard to pick out the lack of lower bass. It's hard to explain these things in words but I hope you understand what I'm saying.

You can fit any driver in any location. Depends on how hard your willing to to work to get it there. I'm not an installer so I can't really comment on fitting speakers. They are indeed $180 per pair of drivers. This does not include the crossover. Typically you would use the crossover and tweeter from the EXT-5.2 which is on the SPL Dynamics site. Last time I checked they were $150 if bought with the HF6.1. I probably said they were cheaper last time I posted but prices are changing everywhere at the moment.

I'm sorry about this but I have probably run you into a problem. The best way to mix the HF6.1 with another tweeter is to use a 4 channel amp and use each channel to run each speaker. This means you can use the setting on the amplifier to split the signal up. This will probably increase the overall cost. I suggested the HF6.1 since you were after some punch and they're a logical option but they will be a bit more complicated if you don't use SPL Dynamics crossovers and tweeters.

If I was on a budget I would give Option Audio amplifiers a look. I don't have any info on pricing but the last time I checked they were very competitive.

OK, what about this idea?

1. Buy a 2 x 150W RMS amp (please suggest a good, cheap one) to run the HF6.1's + tweeters, plus install new wiring

2. Throw out rear speakers, relocate stock fronts to rear (look like 5-6"), run them off 2 channels of the head unit (not bridged)

Sounds like a plan but you will need to use a crossover that can work with both the tweeters and midbass driver. I think figuring out the best amplifier solution is your next hurdle.

As for the MaxxBass103, you cannot get the same results with EQ. I could post another 3 paragraphs about why, but unless your really interested just take my word for it. Its also a $400 RRP unit so its definitely not for this upgrade, maybe in future.

Sound deadening would probably be Dynamat Extreme. You would cover the doorskin behind the trim. Doing the inside of the door will help a lot, but it will cost a lot more to do and will make it dificult to repair if you have a ding on the body.

I'm using a material called Accumat. Its more expensive than Dynamat but its MUCH lighter. You might want to consider it since your driving a performance car.

Well that's the end of another essay!

Thanks again for all the help

No dramas.

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi again Joe, thanks very much for the reply - sorry for my late reply, completely forgot about this post!

Anyway, I think I ended up getting a bit ahead of myself in terms of money and complexity! :) I think what I'll do is just go for the original DLS that I was looking at, starting with just running them off the head unit, then if that doesn't do what I want, look at adding a couple of small midbass/subs in the rear.

However, a question about this: a friend has told me that I won't get "punch" if I mount things in the rear. I must do something like what you suggested and run powerful 6.5" drivers in the front. Is this true?

I went to Autobahn to look at the Option Audio amps, get prices, etc. and one of the guys gave me a suggestion: mount twin shallow 8" subs in the sides of the car, right next to where you sit in the back, I guess normally where the door would be if it were a sedan. He maintains that there is ample mounting depth there and is easy to build a box in there. That way it's still relatively close to me, I retain all boot space (this is very important to me) and with grills they should stay relatively protected. I would probably run a 4 channel for the front/rear and a separate moboblock for the subs. Do you think this is a viable option instead of your original suggestion? It's just that doing it this way allows me to start off cheaply and gradually build it up as I need to (and as I get more cash :rofl: ).

Anyway, I'm hoping to take a trip to Melbourne mid July so I want to at least have the DLS in by then!

Its depends on how much modification you want to do. I have never heard a system like that so I can't comment on how well it will work.

You definitely want the punch in the front. It has to do with staging as well. If you have too much punch in the back it actually draws the bass in that direction ruining your staging.

BTW I made a mistake with the HF6.1 components. There actually is a crossover that you can get with them.

As for shallow woofers, check out Earthquake.

Hey Ben, I'm very interested in your side mounted subs idea. Seems like an easier and cleaner setup than the boot. Over the next month I'll be re wiring my car and installing some front and rear speakers and an amp. While im at it Ill take a look at the amount of the area your talking about and see if I cant think up some ideas for the sidemounts. Are you thinking of doing this yourself or a professional job? Oh and are talking about having Twin as in 1 on either side, or twin and as 2 on either side? Either way, sounds like a crankin idea. Let me know how you go.

Bit of an Update for you. Did some research and some measuring. From what I can tell, you'll only fit one sub on each side. And from all the spec sheets I've rear, we'll only be able to fit 6.5" subs.

I've found two that will fit.

JL Audio 6w3v3 - 6.5" - 4, and 8 ohm - 150w RMS Mounting depth is 108mm, Overall diameter is 174mm

Mounting hole diameter is 140mm

Kicker CVT65 - 6.5" - 2,4, and 8 ohm - 150w RMS - Mounting Depth is 71mm, Overall Diameter is 175mm

Mounting hole diameter is 140mm also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...