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hi all,

as title says i did a engine change in my r33 & now it wont go, the engine mods are as follows:

hks 3037s

greddy intake

q45 throttle body

z32 afm

660cc injectors

550hp fuel pump

fuel reg

apex pfc

intercooler etc.

Okay, the symptoms are as follows:

I am getting plenty of fuel, spark and battery power but;

  • the engine turns over as it should for approx 6 revs and then turns over very slowly (as if there was too much compression) for one rev, then repeats, also the lights on dash and fc dim when this happens.

when the front 3 coil packs are removed and 1 spark plug is out, it tries to fire but still wont go.

I have checked all earth straps and all connections are tight, the car used to be an auto but is now a 5spd but was already like the before changeing engine but i changed the loom that runs down the side to starter alt and power from auto to manual as the auto 1 in it had broken clips, the timing has been checked and re-checked, and I just can't work it out...... PLEASE HELP ME!?!?!?!

Matt.

Edited by mattsr31

have tried move cas and even putting another 1 in but still the same

what on the loom want make this happen but

what volts should alt put out and why would that course this

the things is all the bolt on's are off the motor that was running in car before its was putted out

How did you check ignition timing? From the loop near the ignition module or at the plug itself? I've seen 20 odd ign diff between the 2 with pfc with cheap timing lights. Its an obvious diff on the cas 1 way or another if its way off centre. Ive also seen the locating tangs on the ex cam break off therefore offsetting the timing depending on where it slots in causing the same symptoms. Couple of ideas

It won't be anything to do with the alternator - during "start", the battery supplies all electric power. Alternator only takes over once the engine is running.

Are the fuel lines on the right way?

Have you done a compression check?

If the engine won't start, you won't be able to check ignition timing.

Get a booster battery onto it, so you know for certain that you have enough grunt.

How did you check ignition timing? From the loop near the ignition module or at the plug itself? I've seen 20 odd ign diff between the 2 with pfc with cheap timing lights. Its an obvious diff on the cas 1 way or another if its way off centre. Ive also seen the locating tangs on the ex cam break off therefore offsetting the timing depending on where it slots in causing the same symptoms. Couple of ideas

it has to be the cas i got it running shit and played for abit and got it a little better but not great so kept playing and now it wont go how do u check if cas is in the right spot as in the marks on the back to they mean anything if so which needs to be lined up

got it running ok now rmp 900 timing 17 but dont think oil pump is working how di i tell this

If ur oil pumps not working your top end will be rattling and pretty soon you'll be up for another engine swap. I'm guessing you're not getting a reading on your oil pressure guage? Check that wiring loom that you run from the alt/starter. Thats around the same area as oil pressure sender so maybe you've knocked it off by accident.

ok for one ur oil pump is driving off the crank so its gotta be spining atleast. did u put ur sump or ur oil pump on this new engine etc just double checking cuz if the pick up isnt bolted up properly its probably just gettin air instead of oil... seen if happen b4. with careless nitwits. and for one if the top end is noisy on start up and its a new engine out of a halfcut etc its gonna be noisy due to the fact of if its an rb25 it will have hydraulic lifters which may not be fully pumped up yet... start it give it time to get all the oil flowing etc. unless u really dont know wat certain sounds would be etc dont start it and get a mechanic to come listen when u start it. just a few ideas

Edited by skylinekid

The sender is beside the oil filter. The only thing there with a plug on it. But yeah it is only a sensor and has nothing to do with the pump other than telling you when its not working. Its a sad story but i don't think you're going to fix this problem without ripping that engine back out again to replace the pump. Obviously you've checked your oil levels.

i had the sump off but im sure i sealed and tightned it up. after i ran it i checked oil right away it was not airrated.. the wired thing is right when the car start for the first time it was not doing it even when i got it running preety good left it for a couple mins and only turned it off to get timing right so its only just strated doing it can timing being out make things like this happen or not really. is there a easy way to check if it has oil pressure..

whats flux capacitor

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