Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need the part number for for front windscreen mould. Rang nissan but the guy was not sure if it was the correct one.

Quoted $329 :P

Need to check price before I rip out the old one to paint my car.

If too expensive, I have might use an aftermarket one for $20.

Actually while you are at it, can you provide the the rear hatch mould as well. It is in better condition and may be able to be reused.

Waits for CHOOK to respond :P

Thanks

I need the part number for for front windscreen mould. Rang nissan but the guy was not sure if it was the correct one.

Quoted $329 :)

Need to check price before I rip out the old one to paint my car.

If too expensive, I have might use an aftermarket one for $20.

Actually while you are at it, can you provide the the rear hatch mould as well. It is in better condition and may be able to be reused.

Waits for CHOOK to respond :laugh:

Thanks

Hi Darrin,i had quote on there as had new GEN NISSAN screen put in $250 for both the black mould`s i have part number some where will dig it out & post up if that`s any help Dude,cheer`s chuckie.i was luckie that they saved mould`s,

to put an after market mould on you will have to take the window out, unless you do a dodgy and cut the back off and have it fly off in 6 months time.

there are two parts to the mould, the retainer which is double sided taped on to the body, and the actual mould which goes into the retainer.

If you are painting the car you will need to take the retainer off, to do that mould comes out window comes out then the retainer. If you take the retainer

off you will need to buy a new one, you can usually reuse the mould if your careful!

or you could just mask up the moulds

to put an after market mould on you will have to take the window out, unless you do a dodgy and cut the back off and have it fly off in 6 months time.

there are two parts to the mould, the retainer which is double sided taped on to the body, and the actual mould which goes into the retainer.

If you are painting the car you will need to take the retainer off, to do that mould comes out window comes out then the retainer. If you take the retainer

off you will need to buy a new one, you can usually reuse the mould if your careful!

or you could just mask up the moulds

That is half true. The trim setup is the same as the R33's. When I painted my R33 I left the front and rear screens in, removed the mould and left the retainer.

Once painted I had the 1/4 windows refitted by a windscreen mob and they fitted a generic T shape strip form a commadore for $20 each. it looked different the factory one, but did the same job.

From memory, to replace the front and rear moulds and retainers was going to cost approx $650 for the R33.

I can't mask up the trims as that looks really doggy plus it is getting a full colour change so colour needs to continue under the trim

I will get the windscreen mob out this week to remove the 1/4 windows and see what they can offer or do.

cant picture how a 33 is set up but there is no point removing the mould and not the retainer as the mould covers the edge of the screen and the retainer covers the body. The aftermarket mould that they used is off a vl (im guessing) if thats the case they are going to have to work miricals to get it to work

down the side pillers.

good luck, what colour you going?

good luck, what colour you going?

Finally got onto my parts man that knows what he is doing

Front screen mould p/n 72752-0V010 $105 ex Melbourne

Front screen retainer p/n 72725-0V000 $84 ex Melbourne

Rear screen mould p/n 90386-0V000 $94 ex Japan

At these prices I will go genuine

Still flipping a coin on colour choice, was think bayside blue but might now go Ford Breeze.

I will get the shell undercoated this week end hopefully.

Thanks chook for the fast response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...