Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Stagea has a new, bigger smile ...

Before:

P1020354.jpg

After:

Picture.jpg

Cooling Pro delta fin core yo!

:D

Took a whole afternoon to do it. Purchased the mandrel bends from Aussie Discount Mufflers and cut and welded it all up myself. Total of $69 in materials and a wee bit of my time.

Needed a new cooler to match the new bar. End result = one happy stag owner :P

Pulling it all apart this weekend to paint the piping. No leaks ... happy I can still weld.

Edited by RubyRS4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270537-delta-fin-type-m-big-mouth-yo/
Share on other sites

Looks nice, but perhaps you should move the number plate to allow all that air to pass through to cool the fins?

Yeah and get the fully sic lets go skidding s13 look. thumbs down. Dont think the number plate is actually going to make a massive difference to roo's airflow.

Looks good ruby. Think its time we organised another cruise. adam and I were in the shed till 2am this morning doing the turbos on his 260. Im so glad i have a 25 now lol , so much more space to platy with!

The plate looks good imo where it is now ... and its some 130mm from the mesh and 150mm from the cooler, so its not interrupting the flow. And in any case, its far more flow than the last cooler :P

Chris, yeah another stagea cruise would be awesome. I've got the SAU SA meeting thing this weekend and Kadina after that. Perhaps an end June cruise, or anywhere in between :huh:

good stuff

yeah mount the number plate like mine with a simple bracket

cid_175.jpg

just got a metal intake pipe kit and a proper fmic pipe kit (battery feed), so getting them installed this thursday at dynotune

along with a oil catch can setup

just awaiting delivery of seat rails to tidy up the fitment of my new racing seat

some people move it to the side, which is what S13/S14/S15 drivers SOMETIMES do.........

Its also what the VL commonwhore and some R31 drivers do, to give that fully hectik "I don't have a fmic ... hell, I don't even have turbo ... but I wanna appear that way" look :dry:

yup see my sig ^^^ was there for around 2yrs

prefer the current position tbh

Tangles, you still got those driving lights? :D

Are they oem items? I traded mine off and regret it now ... looking for replacements. ;)

Edited by RubyRS4

looks good roo,fills out your viva bar nicely.me and fr33k just spent the last 2 mornings doing my fmic.got it cheap,apparently its a capa performance? cooler,bought it from the dude doing aleks dump pipe the other day.same side inlet and outlet,we couldnt quite get it in the middle of the bar so we just moved the plate over to hide that fact.came out alright i think,seen as we just used piping that was left over for other cars and projects

looks good roo,fills out your viva bar nicely.me and fr33k just spent the last 2 mornings doing my fmic.got it cheap,apparently its a capa performance? cooler,bought it from the dude doing aleks dump pipe the other day.same side inlet and outlet,we couldnt quite get it in the middle of the bar so we just moved the plate over to hide that fact.came out alright i think,seen as we just used piping that was left over for other cars and projects

Looks good Rodney. Keeping it polished like I am? My last fmic was lightly sprayed satin black to keep it discreet. But this time I've gone for the polished look ... and blue mesh :)

Next big mod for me is the manual conversion for the car. Shopping around for GTR gearboxes now.

manual hay roo.... Im tossing up doing it aswell... Will you do it at home yourself?

Yeah. Buy the box and conversion stuff (pedals etc) and do the work myself in my workshop. Then take it to a transmission place and just have them check it all over. :)

  • 2 weeks later...
The Stagea has a new, bigger smile ...

Before:

P1020354.jpg

After:

Picture.jpg

Cooling Pro delta fin core yo!

:rant:

Took a whole afternoon to do it. Purchased the mandrel bends from Aussie Discount Mufflers and cut and welded it all up myself. Total of $69 in materials and a wee bit of my time.

Needed a new cooler to match the new bar. End result = one happy stag owner :)

Pulling it all apart this weekend to paint the piping. No leaks ... happy I can still weld.

Hey hey. nice car man, looking good. I was just wondering; what intercooler is that, and how much for purchase/installation?if you dont mind me asking. im just getting a vague idea of prices etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...