Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone, sorry if this has been talked about before.

i was just after some guidance on upgrading the ECU. Should i go stand alone, piggyback, chipped, remapped?? then next question what brand? im looking at upgrades to the turbo and other fun stuff in the future. at the moment it just has exhaust, dump pipe, cooler and boost controller. any help would be great thanks. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271221-neo-motor-best-ecu-choice/
Share on other sites

I think the best long term solution is the Vipec/Link ecu at around $2500 installed ( has been done recently on an S2) but the most cost effective and with very similar results is the Nistune rechip at less than $1000 installed - both require a good tune usually on a dyno.

If your car is a manual, a PowerFC for an R34 is always a good option too, but it takes a few minor mods to get it working right.

Do a search for the "Secret Squirrel Tweak" for what mods need to be made.

I run an Emanage Ultimate on my s2 and I am very happy with it. The E-manage is wired into a field harness essentially making the whole unit plug and play.

To revert to standard I just have to unplug the standard harness from the field harness and plug it back into the factory ecu. This is a great option if your car is a daily driver and you are concerned about getting defected for an aftermarket ecu.

If I hadn't done the e-manage I would have gone down the nistune route I have heard good things about them.

hi everyone, sorry if this has been talked about before.

i was just after some guidance on upgrading the ECU. Should i go stand alone, piggyback, chipped, remapped?? then next question what brand? im looking at upgrades to the turbo and other fun stuff in the future. at the moment it just has exhaust, dump pipe, cooler and boost controller. any help would be great thanks. :P

sorry guys yeah this is an auto. thanks for the advice guys. keep it coming

i agree with what KiwiRS4T has said. if money isn't a problem go for the Vipec, but if your on a budget than the nistune chipped ecu is the best option for the auto. thats what i'll be doing when i get around to it.

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm thinking that the NIStune is the way to go probably. the ViPEC is quiet limited to the workshops that deal with them in Adelaide. I haven't read any bad reviews about the NIStune and seen some good power figures. Looks stock if i have to go over the pits aswell. Now all i need to do is find a cam gear and timing belt ready for the 100,000 service. With those and the NIStune i will be interested to see what power it can pull with just an FMIC, 3 inch JASMA exhaust and Dump pipe, 12psi boost then the NIStune and cam gear. :)

Edited by sketchr32

looks like a good mild setup. but i wouldn't bother too much with an adjustable cam gear, while on the non-neo RB25's they can help get a little bit more out of it, the neo engines dont seem to respond the same way with almost no change in power/torque output.

Edited by QWK32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...