Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have you thought about running the external gate from the exhaust housing? i done that with my turbo and $250 50mm gate and its perfect. holds whatever boost i set it at with no creep at all

unfortunatly not adriano, just 1 side. hence different back pressure against front 3 from back 3. I was going to run a spacer between the manifold and the turbo with a gate on it but i do not have enough room.

and I would rather bugger a manifold worth $40 than a turbine housing. also if i have to i can easily enough swap over the manifoldback to a non gated one if i have to.

some have mentioned the possinility of tapping a thread in the manifold and screwing a 50mm pipe in the thread that the gate comes off. this looks like a good ideal as welding cast iron is a bit of a hit and miss operation. I have a mig but my skills are not very good yet and i would most likely crack the mani even if i preheated it.

I am going to install the gate on the manifold so it feeds off both sides of the seperator. i really dont need it to come on boost earlier :D i like the way it comes on now.

can you explain a bit? where would the gate go? and what wouuld ot feed from Cheers"

I thought about doing that but the plumbing would be above what i can do due to the cast welding.

so i am going to stick with the manifold gate :D

results in 2 weeks poeple!

UPDATE:

My replacement stock manifold arrived and so did the new wastegate. I bought 2 90deg long radius steampipe bends from reece plumbing.

The manifold has been drilled on both sides of the devider and I have cut 2 elongated ports and filed them smooth but leaving the devider intact. the steam pipe was then cu to suit the profile of the manifold and tacked in place the 2nd elbow was welded to the first in the right orentation and the gate flange welded to it.

I then welded the new gate pipe to the manifold. I was going to get it done professionally but decided to attempt it myself as i really wanted it finished thes weekend. I cleaned the manifold and gate pipe with a wire brush and used flux core gasless wire to weld it as the flux apparently helps bind the mild steel and cast iron. I fed quite a bit of heat into it and used 130amps and kept a HUGE weld pool. did it in 3 passes and it looks fairly strong. will wait and see once it has cooled down :domokun:

so the manifold is now done and will go back on the car tomorrow after it is cleaned up and painted...

well so much for stock looking car :/ I was really hoping to get away with the internal gate but the external was always going to be the better option.

Manifold is now on! the external gate sounds evil :thumbsup: looks like it holds boost very well. the 12psi spring seems to hold boost just fine just using the side port and leaving the top port to vent to atmosphere.

photos will be coming later tonight!

cheers!

P1000211.jpg

P1000212.jpg

P1000215.jpg

once i have had a chance to to a nice WOT in 4th and i am satisfied it holds boost flat it will be a trip back to the dyno and finally some results. I will try and book some time this following week if i can. probably needs about 2 hours more tuning.

the ghetto boost line will be fixed. i just ran out of hose and used what i had laying around, it will run from the plenum across the back of the firewall to the gate. I still dont have the screamer plumbed into the exhaust. i am going to get some 1&1/2" mandrel bends to do it properly but i think i will drive it around like this for a while to frighten small children :P

Adriano,

I looked at it for ges and no, the manifold would be hacked to buggery to do it. I really wanted to do it that way but nevermind :P

CJ, Will do! I will mount the camera and go for a drive over the next couple of days!

  • 2 weeks later...
Adriano,

I looked at it for ges and no, the manifold would be hacked to buggery to do it. I really wanted to do it that way but nevermind ;)

CJ, Will do! I will mount the camera and go for a drive over the next couple of days!

where are these videos.. Im also using a hx40w, 16cm2 exhasut side on my l28, Also convinced my mate and found him another hx40 16cm2 for his rb25det.. :happy:

yeha I will get there :P

too much on the go at the moment, I have jsut finished rebuilding a CBR600R and now have to cafe racers is bits in my garage. it never ends, i have kind of given the car a break for now but will finish this soon,

The car is on the road and daily driven at the moment when the gate opens it breaks traction HARD! its pretty loud!

has anyone else got any figures from these turbos on RB's yet?

Sorry, we have a typhoon here right now so no vids for the next couple of days. Soon though, I promise. I've got a couple other people asking for them on another board also, so I'll get to it soon.

CEF, what kind of figures are you looking for? HP/dyno/track numbers I assume? Best place for that would be the results thread the DSM guys have put together here but those are mostly 2.0L 4G63 motors, so it's not apples to apples.

Would be good to see some actual dyno figures for a Holset on an RB, as much fun as it all sounds any semi-decent reasonable sized turbo makes for a fun drive on an RB25 :P

Would be good to see some actual dyno figures for a Holset on an RB, as much fun as it all sounds any semi-decent reasonable sized turbo makes for a fun drive on an RB25 :)

fingers crossed we'll find out soon with nish's car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...